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If the radiator stay rods are loose, I can't think what else you'd do except loosen both running boards and any front fender to body bolts and try to shift one side back slightly and the other forward slightly.

There should be a little give in the rear fenders. If not, you might need to shim one running board to rear fender joint a little or loosen one or the other rear fender and shift it or them slightly.

Be sure the radiator & shell assy is not tilted left/right.

The car needs to be sitting level when making any adjustments and the tire pressure should be on spec.

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Thanks! I'm familiar with the Bleche White, but I hate how quickly it has to be re-done. Maybe this will help keep the wide whites pristine for a little longer.

On the '54 I just use a little soapy water and a magic eraser on the whitewalls.

Ugh. Still having fuel delivery issues. Another test drive this morning ended with the car dying right before I got to the road leading to our house. Only did half a mile. Luckily I was able to coast in off the main road. Couldn't get it to start or run again initially, so had to tow it to the shop with the truck.

Fuel cap on or off didn't matter. First filter on the back looked clear, but hardly any gas in it.

I was able to get it started after a bit and into the shop. Out of gear I can rev the engine and keep it at high RPMs with no signs of dying or struggling.

My guess is the fuel pump is the problem. I can't think of anything else. I will pull it off, and rebuild it again. Any other thoughts?

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I added a 6VDC electric pump to my 49, it fixed starting and idle issues. The electric pumps can be hooked up as the only pump or in parallel with the origional pump or as a booster.

I am so sorry for your fuel frustration. I am by no means a mechanic - however my experience is I now install an electric pump in all my vehicles. They are cheap, easy to install and whether for priming/starting after the car sits, or added oomph when climbing a hill in 100degree weather, I haven't had a fuel delivery problem in years.

I do encourage a fuel pressure regulator as some float-needle/seats are more sensitive than others. No more than 3-3.5lbs on the regulator.

There may be a problem with the fuel tank internal pickup tube, either a pinole leak or some kind of obstruction.
I would also recommend a fuel pressure regulator be used in conjuction with an electric fuel pump.

Whatever you do, you'll have to have a clean gas tank and fuel line to have a dependable car.

It's equally important the the entire fuel line be free of any kind of obstruction, including tank sealer, debris, or any kind of dent or crimp.

Double check for anything that could add excess heat to the fuel line or pump.

Hot gasoline is very hard to pull with any pump, and most modern blends are worse in that regard than what used to be standard.

I am also a believer in having a switch controlled electric pump located near the tank. There are two type pumps and both work well. The solenoid type will allow the mechanical pump to pull thru when it is off whereas a rotary type will generally require a dual bypass path with a check valve in the bypass line so fuel can be pulled around the electric pump. Downside to the solenoid type is noise, and to the rotary type, the extra plumbing needed.

As to your mechanical pump, one thing that has caught others is diaphragm tension. Not knowing exactly how the diaphragm is actuated in your specific pump it may be a non issue but on other pumps it is not. In addition to extreme wear and possible damage to the diaphragm, a tight diaphragm is unable to move full range and can provide too little fuel delivery per stroke or with one having extreme tension, the fuel delivered to the carb is often at too high a pressure for the float valve to shut off reliably.

If you did not have the arm pushed fully down to position the diaphragm at maximum travel before tightening the screws holding the halves together that might be something to try on the rework.

If your pump is the type where the arm is directly worked by the cam you might measure the lobe for any wear to make sure the cam is moving it full stroke. If there is a pushrod involved also make sure it is not worn so not delivering a full stroke.

Any paper filter will have some pressure drop, and the pressure drop will always increase with use.

If you are not seing debris in the rearmost filter, I'd suggest removing it entirely and replacing it with a length of new hose. I'd go over all the hose clamps in the system and be sure they're snug.

Sometimes the spring type clamps do a better job on small diameter installations than the screw type. They will also stay tight as the rubber hose takes a set, while giving a full 360 degree grip.

Any filter on the suction side of the system may cause problems, especially in summer weather and after the car begins to warm up. I'd stay with the bowl and screen on the fuel pump and make sure the screen is clean and free of corrosion and that the bowl gasket and washer are absolutely leak tight.

I always fit a low pressure 6V electric fuel pump into the line. Modern fuels are probably better suited for electric pump in tank and fuel injection systems. I found that my 46 Clipper mechanical pump struggled to pull fuel through the electric pump and filter. The mechanical pump is probably due for new valves. I also find that the available plastic inline filters are a tad small inlet and outlet at around 3.5mm. I drill mine out to 4mm to give a bit more flow. Probably makes no difference but it makes me feel better about the setup.