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Its getting colder and wetter here in Indiana and its coming to the point where I need to store my '53 Clipper. It will be outside with a cover. I'm curious what things need to be done for storage? Probably 4-6 months. Do I need to use a fuel stabilizer(it has about half a tank right now)? Disconnect the battery? Oil additive? Any chemicals? I did an oil change on 10/25 (about 60 miles ago). TIA!

Yes to fuel stabilizer. I use it all year long since we don't cycle the gas as fast as we do in our daily driver.

Disconnect battery. Make sure your antifreeze is up to snuff speed you don't end up with a cracked block.

I'd ball up a piece of tinfoil and shove in the tail pipe to keep mice from over wintering in your muffler.

I would try to fill the tank (air space isn't your friend for condensation). Also, run it enough to get the stabilizer through the whole system.

I will be winterizing my boat in the coming weeks and like your car spends the months outside. I like to use fogging oil, I use Sta-Bil's. Easy to use and instruction are on the can. It will help coat all internals of the motor and help prevent internal rusting. Cheap insurance.

BigKev wrote:

Quote:

Also, the draft tube. I clearly recall pix posted in these forums of dead mice found around the pushrods, timing chain, etc.

All good advice above. Make sure to place plenty of desiccant and cedar shavings inside to absorb moisture and prevent moth/insect/rodent damage. Don't overlook the trunk. Could also spray interior, trunk and engine bay with peppermint oil, which mice hate.

Even in the nicest attached home garages, these are prudent measures.

Since you won't be operating the engine for months, cold is no problem. Unless car periodically driven during winters like yours, a heated garage not a good idea since heat boosts chemical reactions, like oxidation, rust.

So using a coolant additive, like Water Wetter, is not really needed? The only time it would get driven or started during the winter months is if the temperature is above 50 degrees farenheit(which is possible in Indiana). I was also planning on putting DampRid inside to keep moisture down/out since it does have some leaky spots, but hopefully the cover will block those. Also, is there anything particular to do when I start it for the first time after storage? Thanks!

Couple observations..

If you are planning on starting it during the winter, then you really aren't "winterizing" your car. Fogging the motor as I described would be negated by starting the engine and would need to be done again if it were to sit for a long period. If you plan on using it occasionally you would be better off sticking to a schedule and just run it every few weeks or so and treat it like a spare car in your driveway.

Antifreeze for storage need not be special. To put in perspective for my boat I drain all the water out of the block (boats bring in fresh water to cool) and simply fill it back up with non-toxic antifreeze. It's cheap and its only purpose is to prevent to block from cracking and helps prevent rust internally. It has no running performance characteristics. In your car you want to have fresh antifreeze, but one rated for your car and climate. Don't overthink it. Wetting agents you describe are more for keeping engines cooler vs cracking.

You don't talk about what cover you own. Don't use a blue tarp of death that doesn't breathe. Spend the money and make sure you buy one specific to your car and application. You have several price options available. I always like using California Car Covers myself.

If you can avoid road salt, it would be very beneficial to take the car out for a long drive (30 miles or more) every six weeks or so. Short of that, don't start the car unless you are going to drive it at least half an hour or more. If you have an opportunity to take a drive, top up the gas tank afterward. Putting the battery on a maintainer for a couple of days a month can be beneficial. Stepping on the brake pedal a couple of times every month or so with moderate pressure can help prevent leaks and sticking cups. Rocking the car or pushing it a couple of feet once in a while can help prevent stuck brake shoes

I'd want to uncover the car every few weeks or after heavy rain or snow to check for water leaks and soaked covering material Moving the car a few feet by pushing it can help prevent tire damage. Check tire pressure at least every month. Moisture can accumulate under car covers. Ventilation in dry weather can minimize it. You need a quality car cover in good condition, and the car needs to be placed in a well-drained area. Concrete is best.

It's probably best to leave the parking brake off to prevent stuck shoes or cables.