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On my 1940 Super 8, after around 25 years my water pump is leaking. I have one or two rebuilt many years ago spares, so I think all good there? I can remember many years ago getting this done. I have the generator loose and some slack on the belt. Managed to get the four bolts holding the fan blades out. Ouch!!. Need to get to the bolts holding the water pump to the block. Looks like the front of the engine will need to be lifted about 1/4 inch for the bottom bolt to come out? Trying not to pull the hood, front cowl and radiator. Do I have enough clearance? Done many years ago but cannot remember all of the details. There is not enough clearance to pull the fan and pulley out before the water pump comes loose? Thanks

I believe it is commonly necessary to lift the front of the engine slightly to get that last bolt out and to put it back in. This is due to settling of the front engine mount rubber. It is usually not necessary to unbolt any other parts to do this. Use due care to avoid damage to the oil pan and only lift the engine just enough to get the bolt out. I found it easier to install the pump, fan, and pulley as an assembly on my '37 120. Your car may be different. Use copper washers on all bolts that go into the block, and do not use lock washers on them.

It's hard/difficult/nearly impossible to restart those bolts when refitting the water pump to the block. one trick I learned was to use a temporary alignment "tool" in one of the bolt holes while getting the other bolts started, then discard the temporary tool. I used a broken in half wooden golf tee, but anything of sufficiently small diameter should be OK.

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After my first attempt at this I soon learned that a sheet of cardboard or on old plastic corflute was cheap protection from the cheese grater effect the radiator had on my hands.

Thanks for the reply's, after today I like having my fingers and knuckles all scrapped up. Yep I seem to remember having to lift up the front of the engine years ago. As I remember a 2x4 on its side worked good to push up on the oil pan front bolts.
I do remember having to support the center of the impeller and press the front flange a bit further on the shaft for radiator clearance, and to align with generator pulley and balancer. Fortunately I have a press making this a bit easier.
For the back plate on the pump there is a gasket, after adjusting the front flange, what is used in conjunction with the gasket for a good metal to gasket seal these days, if anything?
The last time I attempted this was much younger, no arthritis and my wrists and fingers were far more nimble than now. Then it was a fun learning experience, now it's a pain of hand and body contortions Getting up from the floor I have been laying on, now I need to roll a bit and try to ignore the pain in my wrists, elbows, knees, and a few other places. Toooo old, unfortunately for me.

Who did I meet years ago at Fred and Carol Mauck's house for dinner? I remember two gentlemen from Australia. This would been around 1990 give or take. I had a few Packard 12 radiator caps made by Stant that they purchased from me.

got all of the water pump bolts out. Now cannot get the belt past the balance wheel and the lower radiator hose protrusion. If necessary I can cut this belt, and use a spare that I have but, it may not be able to clear the radiator, and balance wheel on installation. Any ideas?
May need to somehow loosen the radiator cradle to swivel just a bit? A narrower belt? I can take a picture if needed?
What size and from where do the crush washers come from?
Thanks Todd

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Cutting might help remove a bad belt but if it is the proper belt and a good one it is a shame to do that. In addition to having a problem getting one off I would imagine you will still have a problem in getting another one on.

Can you loosen or remove the bolts holding the front engine mount to the cross member and try raising the front of the engine a bit more to see if some extra height would be enough to get the belt clearance? If this looks like a possibility and you try it, in addition to the bolts holding the motor mount to the cross member some 356 engines also have small stabilizer brackets near the front but on either side again bolted to the front crossmember. Those will need to be free so be sure to check and see if your car has the stabilizers before raising the engine.

Good idea I just might be able to loosen those two bolts and raise enough? Worth a try, only stabilizer is a fifth shock on the rear axle. That belt has been on the car for around twenty years, but it is a good genuine Gates belt. And I would hate to have to cut it.

Todd, HH56 solved your belt removal and reinstallation of fresh belt pecadillo. The 356 belts are so hefty, part of Packard's over-engineering insecurity, that you won't have to change it for a couple centuries.
The 356 engine water pump uses a copper washer, looking at the below picture as a map of the continental United States, at Seattle and Houston as you see. San Diego and Charleston, SC receive regular lock washers. The Packard parts books confirm the two different washers for the four holding on the 356 water pump. A trace of Permatex on the copper washers wouldn't hurt. A lifelong Packard mechanic and parts supplier says the two you see below I got from NAPA are alright.

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