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I put Cerakote Glacier Black 1800 degree ceramic on my V8 exhaust manifolds in 2017 and they still look like it was just done. The cost was about the same as you have for Industrial Coatings. It was done by a local Cerakote dealer.

Thanks…I’ll check into Cerakote more. My son mentioned it as well

When I did my manifolds, I also took the opportunity to shift to stainless steel hardware on the three bolts that hold the hotbox portion of the two manifolds together. In my mind, that will greatly cut down on future corrososion. The manifold to engine studs I didn't mess with, but I did upgrade back to the original type brass nuts for the manifold to engine studs.

I have had serious problems with stainless steel nuts and bolts seizing when using only hand tools to tighten them. The stainless nuts seized to the 5/8 stainless bolts and could not be removed, even with an impact driver. I had to cut them off, buy 27 new bolts, and use common steel nuts on the stainless bolts. This happened when replacing a 36" fiberglass access cover on a large fiberglass salt water tank. Stainless NPT connections can do the same without using a special anti-seize compound. Stainless mixed with other metals does not seem to be a problem.

I've seen a number of brass nuts on exhaust studs that appeared to be original equipment. I read somewhere that it is not a good idea, FWTW. If nothing else, the brass nuts are easier to cut off than steel ones, and they might respond better to applying heat to loosen them than steel ones would.

All of the nuts on my exhaust manifold appear to be brass. The plan will be to reuse them if possible.

I talked with a local Cerakote provider and I will likely go with them for my exhaust manifold. They are right at the same price as the other place and after doing more asking around, I’ve gotten a lot of really good feedback regarding Cerakote….including from my son.

While I’m at it, I will also have them coat my new hood louvers in a clear gloss Cerakote. These are the reproduction machined aluminum louvers from Max Merritt. They come rough machined and required a lot of hand polishing, but they do look really nice. The Cerakote will protect them and keep them that way. I can get all eight coated for about $100.

I’ve posted these before, but here are a couple of photos of the louvers before and after polishing.

Just a point of reference: on the Jackard motor, all the nuts that hold exhaust manifolds to the engine block studs are brass. These are per spec in the Jaguar parts book. But, the brass nuts are much taller than the equivalent standard steel nuts.

Here’s a picture I have that shows one of the existing nuts on my car. All others are the same.

New question….and another rookie question….

I got to thinking about my car in general and feeling pretty good that I have everything on the car at least working. Then, it hit me…that isn’t correct. My windshield wipers don’t work and I haven’t done investigation on them yet except for this…

I started looking and realized that my vacuum line for the wipers is not connected to anything and is also not plugged. So here’s the question….Until I get around to working on the wipers, should this be plugged? With it as is, what if any problems might it cause?

Here is a photo from under the dash. This is the vacuum line from the fuel pump assembly.

If the line is connected to the engine, then yes you would want to plug it as it is essentially a vacuum leak. If the line is not hooked to the engine check than there is likely already a cap where the line comes off the engine.
A common route is a connection at the manifold just below the carburetor or a tap on the base of the carburetor itself, then a steel line on to the vacuum pump section of the fuel pump (to give you some vacuum when the engine is under load due to acceleration or going up hill), then a separate steel line from the fuel pump to the back of the engine where there is usually a rubber flex hose (to accommodate engine vibration) connecting to the steel line that goes up through the firewall to the vacuum wiper motor's rubber flex hose that attaches to the nipple outlet on the wiper motor itself.
I would cap the line under the dash, or if there is no rubber flex line from that line to the steel line on the engine to cap the steel line at the rear of the engine. This would keep unfiltered air from going into the vacuum pump side of the fuel pump and have the same status to the rest of the system as if the wiper motor was shut off.
I would not simply install a line to the wiper motor in the interim as the old wiper motor would likely leak vacuum the same as the open line until it is properly rebuilt.
Clear as mud?
Bob J.