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I'm sticking with my Titanic salvage theory.

Looks like it was run too cool for a long time. Too cool forms sludge. Thanks for posting. Looking forward to the progress.

Mark

True, though that amount of sludge can be caused simply by the oil degrading over a few decades, especially if water somehow gets in. One time I took apart an Ultramatic that was the same way. Every component part was disgusting and required thorough cleaning. The metal had also rusted slightly at the "sludge line".

"I'm sticking with my Titanic salvage theory."

Yes! I think that Robert Ballard found this engine on the seabed, it having been dislodged from the hull where the ship split apart just forward of the third funnel!

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Got the engine flipped, more on that later. Any tricks to getting the rear main bearing cap off? Can't get it to budge.

Why not just lift up on the crank shaft if everything else is already out

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I'll give it a shot, thanks.

On mine it was not hard to remove the end cap, but when I reassembled it was the 1st time I ever had to deal with wood side seal inserts. These may have swollen and increased the jamming affect on the cap's friction retention. The comment to simply pull up on the whole crank assembly is a good one and will break that extra friction. The crank comes in at a heavy weight to start with so be prepared to give it a good reefing! Maybe use the engine's own weight and the aid of a chain hoist pulling the crank up along with some hammer strikes on hardwood to encourage separation.
It is a fascinating disassembly! Thanks.
Bob J.

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At the back corner on each side are wood wedges that sometimes make it difficult yo remove but if you tilt it slightly one way at the other using a screw driver, it should free up and come out. Otherwise as others have said, it will lift out with the crank.

Also note that there is a threaded hole in the centre of the gasket rail for the oil pan mount cap screws, I guess you could thread in a fastener and try a slide hammer to see if some pulls on that free it too?
Bob J.