Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Hello all,

I have a generator which is creating only +0.65 to +0.9V open-circuit, independent of rpm and independent of third brush angle. Obvioulsy, this is not enough to close the cut-out relay, much less charge the battery. My first guess is that this is because no current is getting to the field coils, but I have so far not found a way to prove much less debug that.

Note that on my car I have a simple "Mapco" cut-out relay, not the original Owen-Dyneto combiation regular-relay.

I assume this means I must remove the generator from the engine for debug & repair. Would anyone know if this is possible without removing the radiator, timing cover, and timing chain?

Happy new 2025!

-Andrew B.

I am guessing the 9th series generator is mounted the same way as the 6th series and earlier cars in which case the generator can be withdrawn without removing anything else. There is a heavy brass plate sandwiched between the generator and the engine, The generator drive gear is mounted on that brass plate. The generator drive shaft is splined to the generator gear. The generator can be removed by removing the three mounting nuts and leaving the brass plate in place without removing anything else. I have read that this cannot be done but I have done it a number of times without a problem. Re-engaging the generator spline with the drive gear when reassembling requires a little care but it is not difficult

I removed the gen from my 901 for a rebuild. It is not difficult to remove however you must use caution to not let the brass plate move away from the aluminum crank block. The brass plate holds the tensioning sprocket for the timing chain. If moved out too far you risk having the timing chain not line up on the reinstall and then you do have to remove the front cover which makes this a much more involved process. The bottom nut ( pivot point ) is the tough one. There is a hole in the splash pan for a box end wrench but putting that nut back on will challenge your patience. I resorted to a piece of masking tape to hold the nut in the wrench but I only got 1/8 of a turn so patience is necessary. Keep in mind the gen is heavy and once you start to remove it you need to keep going till it is out. Going back in was also difficult so I used a rope to the exhaust manifold to hold the weight while I reinserted the unit into the spline. Getting it all the way in was difficult so lube the spline first. Try not the drag it in using the bolts as this could break off a piece of the cast iron flange on the gen and that would be a disaster. Take your time and have all the tools you need close by and another set of hands is always a good thing. Mine was re-wired to use a voltage regulator rather than the cut out which gives me unlimited adjustment with the third brush and a regulator. I believe the cut out is available from KM Lifestyles. Good luck.

I installed a starter for a Model T a couple times and trying to hold the thing in place while starting a couple of the mounting bolts is no fun. Unless you can support the full weight of the generator with one arm at the awkward angle for a solid minute or two, I would suggest a helper for reinstall.

Generator installation/removal pretty much the same on Eights and Super Eights thru the 14th Series. Generator is removed without the need to remove anything else, but important to make sure the forward brass sleeve stays in place as the generator is withdrawn.

Thanks all, very useful guidance!

Be very careful when handling the generator. If it is the style with a bell shaped cover over the brushes, it can be broken easily, End bells are hard to come by. Having said that take a few minutes and examine the casting. They quite often have cracks that are visible. They must be repaired. I have had 2 cracked ones fail. The broken pieces are almost interchangeable.
I put a nut on the gen mtg stud to insure the brass bit doesn't move.