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Quote:

Time to go back to the factory settings for the actuator and the throttle linkage.
See the service manual section 7, pages 118 and 52 respectively.
And retest.

On your wheel bearing concern, I found this in SC 30 #8.

If this proves too loose still, tighten 1/6 turn to undo the step of "back off one hex". (SC 30 #3)

I'll reply on the transmission question later...

Riki - thanks for the tips. I definitely need to read through the manual again to be sure I understand it, as well as get the car back on the lift to get eyes on the motor and actuator. My greatest fear is screwing up the adjustments even worse, so I need to be sure I have it right.

Bob - Thanks, I'll read through those sections.

PGH - That's kind of what I ended up doing. Snug them to 20ft lbs, then I backed them off just a tad, put the lock on and pinned them. Much less free play than before and on my test drive it didn't wobble or shimmy like it had before.

I spent some time doing the throttle adjustments using PGH's excellent guide to do so. I think I have most everything dialed in. I was going to take the car out to do the road testing, but noticed oil all over the carb and the engine. It was obvious the air cleaner was the problem.









I've never messed with this type of cleaner before so it took me a minute to figure out how to get it apart. Looking inside the oil reservoir was empty.



Closer inspection showed a hole in the reservoir, allowing all the oil to drip down to the inside of the lower housing, and from there all over the carb and engine. The lower part is not fluid proof, and the oil was leaking from the crimp at the bottom of the air passage.



There's no way to get the oil out of the lower part due to the design. I ended up having to drill a hole down there to let things drain.



I used JB Weld on the hole in the reservoir, and will probably do the same on the hole I drilled once everything has been drained and cleaned.



Once it's all cleaned up it will go back on and I can test my adjustments. But since it's now no longer my weekend, I will have probably zero time until Saturday to do much of anything.

Kevin

You might want to mix up some clear epoxy to seal that. ,, epoxy..

Riki, are you saying do clear epoxy over the whole reservoir? Might not be a bad idea. This hole seems to be rust-through from the underside. Visually the whole thing looks fine, but it must be bad enough for a hole to form.

That's thought.

I was just thinking of the little one,

That cleaner should not be hard to find so if the JB or epoxy starts to be a project or doesn't stick well because of the years of being saturated with oil it might be time to get another. As I recall, some on the forum have converted to a paper filter and while I don't have a number and others will mention the oil bath does a better job, going to paper might be an option too. I believe there are posts on the forum with the paper changeover details.

You could even just braze it.

Thanks guys. I considered the paper route, and may still do that. I briefly considered welding it, but based on my experiences with thin old metal I predicted that would go poorly and make the problem worse. Brazing would work but I don't have that equipment.

I think the JB Weld will do what I need it to. If it fails then all that's happened is oil spills on the engine and I get to clean it up. At that point I will either find a replacement air filter assembly or move to paper.