Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I'd like to know your opinions. I"m working on a 22 series Custom, replacing and reviving parts as needed.
I'm trying to stay as close to original as possible. What does everyone think I should use, Gloss, Semi-gloss or Matte finish paint on these parts?
This is mainly undercarriage and engine compartment.

Curious to know this as well!

On my '53 Cavalier the original seems to be glossy, but aged of course. So I've been using glossy for things like linkages, air ducts, steering components, drive shaft, etc.

I believe the original thought was to use the cheapest paint possible in the engine bay and on the chassis. Flat or satin I'm pretty sure is what was used. For my '54 I used gloss for the black in the engine bay because I wanted to dress it up a bit. My '56 had the engine bay done before I got it and they used satin black.

Part of my rational for using gloss is that it's easier to clean. I live in a very dusty area, down a very dusty gravel road. Anything I can do to make clean up easier is to my benefit.

A common one in the car industry is to use what is called "black Japan" paint. This is the famed "any color as long as it's black" Model T OEM paint, but it was used for a while due to low cost and relative durability. For example, the 54-56 rocker trim clips used that as the finish, as well as the rear window retaining clips.

For small stuff today I like to use Rustoleum Black Enamel as the look is authentic and it's very durable. Everything else I would use a semi-gloss of choice.

I have an NOS generator brush cover and it's semi-gloss but interestingly, a VERY thin coat.

Many cars restored for the past 55 years and many originals preserved:

1) Gloss or Semi-Gloss: Undercarriage and engine...originally generally semi-gloss but getting a good enamel for undercarriage is more difficult these days, so gloss is usually more available. Majic (Town and Country) or Van Sickle are two very affordable, US-made, alkyd enamels for farm equipment in a variety of colors; I use it on all my tractors, plows, swathers & combines in wind-blown, dusty, cold/hot Wyoming and it lasts and is color-fast. They use soy as a precursor (especially good for very opaque, single coat black). My Packard has 3 coats on the undercarriage & 2 coats on the interior structure for protection.

2) Matte/Satin: Most interior components (heaters, radio receiver boxes, underdash speakers, etc) were painted Matte/Satin to reduce glare reflections on the driver/passengers as well as hiding those items from sight. Satin-nearly-flat finishes were used on instrument panel gauge faceplates to eliminate glare and not show up when backlit at night...PPG (fka Ditzler) has many matte/satin and flat interior paint bases in the full range of hue/tints...talk to your local bodyshop/paint shop who mixes these.

3) True Flat has low reflectivity and was used on high-temp exhausts/shrouds to increase the thermal emittance to dump heat from the surface of the item.

4) Wrinkle paint (textured): As this requires heat (heat-gun or IR lights) to cure it right after spraying to get the shrinkage/wrinkle texture, it also qualifies as a mid-high temp paint inherently. It is in satin black when cured, 98% of the time; this is fine for generator/starter/engine component housings. For interior components (heater, radio, speaker shrouds) an enamel overcoat accent color is applied once dry to give you your interior color if black isnt your vibe.

I hope this gives you my experience/insight

Thanks guys. This was very helpful.