Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I'd like to know your opinions. I"m working on a 22 series Custom, replacing and reviving parts as needed.
I'm trying to stay as close to original as possible. What does everyone think I should use, Gloss, Semi-gloss or Matte finish paint on these parts?
This is mainly undercarriage and engine compartment.

Curious to know this as well!

On my '53 Cavalier the original seems to be glossy, but aged of course. So I've been using glossy for things like linkages, air ducts, steering components, drive shaft, etc.

I believe the original thought was to use the cheapest paint possible in the engine bay and on the chassis. Flat or satin I'm pretty sure is what was used. For my '54 I used gloss for the black in the engine bay because I wanted to dress it up a bit. My '56 had the engine bay done before I got it and they used satin black.

Part of my rational for using gloss is that it's easier to clean. I live in a very dusty area, down a very dusty gravel road. Anything I can do to make clean up easier is to my benefit.

A common one in the car industry is to use what is called "black Japan" paint. This is the famed "any color as long as it's black" Model T OEM paint, but it was used for a while due to low cost and relative durability. For example, the 54-56 rocker trim clips used that as the finish, as well as the rear window retaining clips.

For small stuff today I like to use Rustoleum Black Enamel as the look is authentic and it's very durable. Everything else I would use a semi-gloss of choice.

I have an NOS generator brush cover and it's semi-gloss but interestingly, a VERY thin coat.

Many cars restored for the past 55 years and many originals preserved:

1) Gloss or Semi-Gloss: Undercarriage and engine...originally generally semi-gloss but getting a good enamel for undercarriage is more difficult these days, so gloss is usually more available. Majic (Town and Country) or Van Sickle are two very affordable, US-made, alkyd enamels for farm equipment in a variety of colors; I use it on all my tractors, plows, swathers & combines in wind-blown, dusty, cold/hot Wyoming and it lasts and is color-fast. They use soy as a precursor (especially good for very opaque, single coat black). My Packard has 3 coats on the undercarriage & 2 coats on the interior structure for protection.

2) Matte/Satin: Most interior components (heaters, radio receiver boxes, underdash speakers, etc) were painted Matte/Satin to reduce glare reflections on the driver/passengers as well as hiding those items from sight. Satin-nearly-flat finishes were used on instrument panel gauge faceplates to eliminate glare and not show up when backlit at night...PPG (fka Ditzler) has many matte/satin and flat interior paint bases in the full range of hue/tints...talk to your local bodyshop/paint shop who mixes these.

3) True Flat has low reflectivity and was used on high-temp exhausts/shrouds to increase the thermal emittance to dump heat from the surface of the item.

4) Wrinkle paint (textured): As this requires heat (heat-gun or IR lights) to cure it right after spraying to get the shrinkage/wrinkle texture, it also qualifies as a mid-high temp paint inherently. It is in satin black when cured, 98% of the time; this is fine for generator/starter/engine component housings. For interior components (heater, radio, speaker shrouds) an enamel overcoat accent color is applied once dry to give you your interior color if black isnt your vibe.

I hope this gives you my experience/insight

Thanks guys. This was very helpful.

For the interior matte stuff, since it doesn't need weather resistance and is used in small quantities they could go with the more expensive matte paint. For the same reason you should be able to see exactly what it is when looking at the underside or overlap of a part when it's removed, to see the original unfaded shade.

The rule of matte for interior is common but not universal; in particular, the V8 cars actually used metallic paint on the dash.

Also on interior paint, inspect the part to see the original finish. The heaters, radio receiver boxes, underdash speakers, etc. that I have seen aren't even painted to begin with; just a zinc or cadmium finish. Not saying it wasn't different in earlier years though, so just some common sense is in order when inspecting the part.

And a warning: Do not use IR lights in the vicinity of any plastic lenses whatsoever as the plastic of that era cannot withstand the heat generated. There was a service letter on this in the V8 era.

My post was speaking only to prewar cars and 46-47 (largely prewar finishes and methods). The IR lights were discussed only in the context of painting a shroud with wrinkle paint nowhere near the interior of the car.

DM37, good explanation, and thanks.

This is one of those instances when hang "originality." Packards were production cars, more cheaply made as the years passed, certainly 1940-on, when all models, regardless of sound engineering, were bucket mill affairs. From 1941-on, bodies by Briggs strong as Fisher, but not as finely wrought, if we're being honest.

The original chassis black could be wiped off with a kerosene-dipped rag. Why on earth would anyone want to emulate get-them-out-the-door at lowest cost methods on a pricey rebuild/renovation/restoration today? Why not use the best materials to ensure long preservation?

All else equal, the glossier the paint, the harder, longer wearing. If you agree gloss black engine accessories glaring, tacky, knock it down with triple aught copper or steel wool. But at least you'll have the superior protection of gloss paint.

Some of this hilarious, from guys going gaga over Darrins, no two alike, rear inner fenders bashed down with sledges so the top would fold lower, strictly get them out the door, whether LA or Connersville. A couple by Rollson the exception. And if available, Rollson would've used better materials, paints. So would've Packard.

We hear Packard owners telling bystanders how their East Grand Avenue Super Duper Deluxe Custom was "America's Rolls-Royce," if not better. But look how the lowliest postwar Crewe Mark VI, R-Type, Silver Dawn finished throughout, even where few or no eyes see, despite being assembled boutique cars cloaked by Pressed Steel of Cowley near Oxford, who bodied many of England's automobiles of varying prices, just as Budd, Murray; with Briggs supplying Ford to Packard and Pierce-Arrow. Our cars are not so rare that there are no examples in some public or private collection/museum with chassis black and hogs hair carpet.

gr86.org/threads/1946-bulgemobiles-%E2%8 ... %E2%80%A6from-the-tires-down.10826/ Click on picture to enlarge and see rest of feature.

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For many years I owned a one-of-ten 1964 Crown Imperial limousine with a body by Ghia which had many such things hidden by upholstery.