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Carb Return Spring
#1
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CarFreak
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So I am running into an issue with my Caribbean. When I had it out a couple months ago the right front brake started to lock up. Found out the brake lining separated which lead me to get all new brakes shoes around the car. When I took it for a test drive after everything was properly adjusted the brakes did not want to stop the car well at all. However, when I put it in neutral the car stopped fine. Which leads me to believe that my idle is too high. I did screw with it a year or so ago so it is not surprising.


this leads me to my current issue. So I was finally able to get the car to properly idle in gear at 500 rpms or so. However, if I blimp the throttle in either neutral or in gear the idle does not go back to where it was initially. In order to do that I need to go under the hood and physically push down the throttle shaft on the front carb. I tried to have the front carbs throttle blades open as far as possible to help with this situation while still keeping the idle speed down low but I am not having any luck. Is there a way to add an additional throttle return spring?

I will add this disclosure. The car does not have the correct Caribbean carbs. It has the patrician carbs. And it appears the carb linkage was soldered onto the shaft at some point. Which may or may not be contributing to the problem. However, I am not ready to plunk down the cash to get rebuild able cores and have them set out to be reworked quite yet. That is a lot of capital.

Posted on: Today 10:39
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Re: Carb Return Spring
#2
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Packard Don
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I can't help you specifically with dual carburetors but I can tell you that the dual setup uses special carburetors as you probably already know. They are quite different than those from a Patrician and likely have different valving as well as different linkage configuration so probably best to find the proper carburetors before going further.

Posted on: Today 12:42
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Re: Carb Return Spring
#3
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56Clippers
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Quote:

CarFreak wrote:
When I took it for a test drive after everything was properly adjusted the brakes did not want to stop the car well at all. However, when I put it in neutral the car stopped fine. Which leads me to believe that my idle is too high.


The service manual Ultramatic front pump pressure tests are done "Full Throttle- Car standing with brakes applied". If you have to shift to neutral to stop the car, there is brake work to be done.

Quote:

this leads me to my current issue. So I was finally able to get the car to properly idle in gear at 500 rpms or so. However, if I blimp the throttle in either neutral or in gear the idle does not go back to where it was initially. In order to do that I need to go under the hood and physically push down the throttle shaft on the front carb. I tried to have the front carbs throttle blades open as far as possible to help with this situation while still keeping the idle speed down low but I am not having any luck. Is there a way to add an additional throttle return spring?


Does it work in Park?
Have you tested the return of the individual parts of the linkage: accelerator pedal through relay lever, carburetor to transmission, and carburetor alone?

Posted on: Today 12:54
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Re: Carb Return Spring
#4
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Pgh Ultramatic
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What do you mean "soldered onto the shaft"? 🤨 Photo?

Sounds like the linkage is binding. Are the carbs snappy with the linkage off of them, and is the linkage snappy off the carbs?

Posted on: Today 13:33
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Re: Carb Return Spring
#5
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packardbill
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Choke heater pipe? If it's broken or clogged throttle screw may not come fully off high idle cam...had that once on my Patrician. PB

Posted on: Today 14:20
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Re: Carb Return Spring
#6
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CarFreak
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Oh Yes I am well aware of there being differences. But at this point (being unemployed) I have a hard time justifying that cost and wait time.

When it comes to the brakes I know they are adjusted. The brake pedal barely moves an inch and the car has some good resistance. The issue I kind of suspect, but no way to prove, is that the new brake shoes I got may have a liner that is not geared for stopping power as much as low noise and or low brake dust.

the issue also happens in park. It happens no matter the status of the linkage. Meaning that with the linkage attached or not, same issue is present (issue being, carb not returning to idle).

yes the throttles on the carbs are snappy. if they are opened, they will snap shut, just not all the way.

Please see the attached picture of the solder. Yes I know the fast idle screw is engaged, but that is because the picture was taken when the car was cold.

Click to see original Image in a new window


Oh I am well aware of the fast idle sticking. The fast idle cam has dropped fully out of position once the car is warm. I also can confirm that both secondarys are closed. I did have that issue with the rear carb that I think I fixed.

Posted on: Today 16:55
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