Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Post some photos.

Some modern cars do the hose between the tank and fill connection. My last Ford pickup did it that way. If the hose is not too long it should be steady but if there is an issue then it should not be too hard to add a short brace clamped on the tube somewhere mostly out of sight between the fill tube and body or frame to hold it steady..

I don't remember if it was in a forum post somewhere or in an article written by a repro parts outfit but do remember reading that a lot of tanks were actually very similar in size and shape.. I am wondering if when the first repro stock Kanter made ran out and with the issue with the wrong bends in the tube if other vendors started looking at what was already being made and found something that would work. By already having a tank and just reproing the fill neck for differentiating between brands it would seem like the cost could be amortized over more than one car and would also be less expensive to stock.

Price is still way up there so maybe, like Apple, there is also a Packard tax but at least something is available. The 51-6 tank at $500 or so is high but better than nothing. Now if they could just find something like that as a solution for earlier models so there would be something besides the $1000 tank offered for some 40s models by the Mopar place then Packard would finally be covered fairly well.

A no Brainer for a welding shop.

They can weld exactly how you want it. Give them both tanks

Here are 2 photos. If you rig the new filler spout to the tube coming out of the new tank, it is about an inch short to the inboard compared to the old original tank. So if you had to weld it, you would have to add a 1" sleeve of the same diameter tubing to it bringing it in the proper position like the old original tank.[PROCESSING IMAGE.... PLEASE WAIT][PROCESSING IMAGE.... PLEASE WAIT][PROCESSING IMAGE.... PLEASE WAIT]

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This is an original 1952-1956 tank which, as noted, did not use the hose section on the filler pipe and as far as I recall, the reproduction tank I have also does not have it. It does have different bends done using a die rather than roller which is quite noticeable. In other words, where the original had two sweepings bends, the reproduction has three sharper ones.

Interesting change on the replacement tank. I think a large portion of why they did it is because of shipping. Shipping the tanks with the filler neck connected made for a huge box. More potential for damage too.

I would just run the replacement tank as is. Put the hose on it and clamp it down. They made some nice bumps to clamp up against and prevent leaks. It'll work fine. Probably easier to get the tank in and out also. You may not need to disconnect the exhaust now.

If you are worried about leaks you could put some shellac gasket compound on the metal. Don't put it on the hose or on the ends of the fittings as you don't want a blob of it getting loose in the gas tank.

Absolutely Kevin
.cost me extra 150 or 200 bucks to ship a one piece fill tube