Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

HH56 gives good advice above to follow.
However, i like to do alot of trial and error operational tests before i start the hard stuff:

Try driving the car in "H" ONLY. If symptom repeats then immediately shift to "D" or "R" (after car has stopped of course) to see if the car moves on or remains stopped.

What i am saying is PLAY WITH IT!!!! try different ranges and take note of the operation and when symptoms come and go.

Is it Push button or lever shifter???

If it is PUSH BUTTON then u mite want to bypass the pressure switch on the trans just to eleminate the possibility of it sticking in open or closed postition.

Is the filter clean?????

******** DEFINATELY try using "H" ONLY for forward movenment to see if the problem persists. ********

TurboPackman recommended somekind of snake oil trans additive or maybe it was an oil replacement several posts ago. Try that too.

As I thought about it more, I remembered a few more tidbits. When i first got the Ultra back from the shop in AZ, it wouldn't drive at all; ended up shipping it back (on their dime, at least) to them for a warranty re-rebuild. It was only when we got it back the second time, that we installed it and it ran the aforementioned 50 miles..

Packard V8: yes, we tried playing with every gear position many times; that's how we could get it to go the 15-20 feet. It just got to where it ceased functioning at all. It's a `53 Patrician, so it's a shift lever,

HH56:the fluid is clean, clear and smells just fine, we used the 12 qts capacity. We didn't try any of the pressure checks, at that point, I just figured given the long and arduous road we'd been on, it should be disassembled. We just removed the Ultramatic for the 3rd time and moved to this point of finding either an experienced packard guy, a rebuilt unit itself or a conversion. Ya know, Fresno's not that far away; ever poked around inside an Ultramatic?...

thanks to the both of you for your information..

Take it apart and give it another try. JUST watch cost issues.

Since it's a streight 8 i would lean more toward a conversion WITH OVERDRIVE like the Gm 700R4 especialy if any significant interstate travel at 70+ mph is in the cars future or maybe even a stick with somekind of overdrive.

I'm leaning towards the 700R4, though the torque converter is a (12V) electrically controlled lockup, so I'd have to work out that issue. My car remains 6 volt. I wonder if a type of step up transformer from 6 to 12 volts could be utilized.

Did the Az shop give any indication of what work was done either time or what parts might have been changed?

Answering your question, I've successfully been inside a few. Problem would be that other than just checking for obvious worn or broken items, am not sure how much good it would do to just look since I no longer have any way to test things in operation--either before or after. Even just opening it up would also require a gasket set to do it properly. Would consider doing it though to give a second opinion if you wanted as long as we're not on a tight schedule.

On your R4 conversion, would require a bit more than a step up transformer to get the 12v. Not sure exactly what the trans requires in way of current capacity but Turbopackman had a link to a windshield wiper motor site (which I can't find right now). One of the accessories was a 6 to 12 v converter. There are several out there for running phones etc but if that one could run a wiper motor with all the trash and back emf that generates, could probably run a trans solenoid.

Ultramatics behind the in-line 8s are particularly trouble-free. I'd run the standard diagnositic pressure tests and see where that leads me.

I would agree 100% with Owen on this one.

It seems like the earlier Ultramatics are tarred with the same brush as the complex '55 and '56 Twin Ultramatics... and thus arouse the same temptation to change them out for a "modern" trans.

The early Ultramatics had a reputation as one of the best if not THE best of the first generation of automatic transmissions, and have give reliable service to many owners for many years. So, why change the authenticity of a great car that also has a great automatic transmission?

Also, as with all re-fits, the odds are you'll have plenty of teething problems before it works right, if it ever does.

Kudos to those who want to make these swaps as a project for an otherwise modified car--to see how well they can personally make it work. Fun experiment, but wholly necessary when the work would have to be "farmed out" anyway, and there is really no need to change, especially if your car is not otherwise heavily modified.

Just my

The Az shop wouldn't confirm what was or wasn't done basically. Nice. Well, I suppose I could reinstall it to do some pressure testing; it is getting heavier each time I think..

If anyone has the special tools that Ultramatics use and they want to get rid of them reasonably, let me know. I'm serious about the trans rebuilding service, I'd do it.

And i'd have the ultramatic in my 50 rebuilt. Leaks like a siv and is finicky. Sign me up turbo!