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Good to see you back on the tools Hank.....and I thought I posted a lot of pic's!

Looks to me like your trans has been underwater at some point in time. That much rust can't be caused by condensation, unless you're living in a rain forest! I'd be looking for another trans, and use that one as parts.

really? that bad? i just assumed it was nasty trans fluid. you can tell that the inside was painted black at one point, but that just comes off with a wipe of the hand. the surface doesn't really feel rusty, just looks nasty. i did power wash it before i took it apart and there was some water in the pan, but i didn't really see any water in the rest of the transmission.

the car was sitting in a field for about 15 years and it probably sunk into the ground a bit. i wasn't there when Hayden pulled it out of it's grave, so i don't know.

although, if i can get the torsion motor to run again, maybe i will get lucky with this transmission. i don't really have much choice, so unless someone wants to give me a new transmission, HAHA yeah okay, then i will be getting this one cleaned up at the machine shop when the motor gets vatted. ;0)

yeah there were more pics than that, but i got tired of posting them one at a time. LOL!

later dudes,

Hank

Quote: Have to agree with Eric on that. Too much of what appears rust & corrosion on sealing surfaces seen. Doubt you'd ever get smooth enough & not wear the surface down or still gritty enough to not damage new seals and bushings. Soda supposedly does no damage so try with your soda blaster and see how well it cleans. There could be even more serious damage if the pot metal valve body also is corroded internally so that valves hang. Would use this one as the learning unit, some parts but give it a try. Wouldn't spend any money on new parts for it yet.



Quote: Special bolt detailed on pg 48 of SM. May even have a copper washer under head as well. Be careful not to damage bellhousing surface under it as bolt threads into or thru an oil passage and could leak.

okay, i pretty much have the entire transmission apart now, minus a few pieces. time has been virtue on some of these parts.

i cannot get the valve out of the governer as there is no way for me to tap it out with my brass drifts. i am trying to be easy on it, but i may need a new one of those.

i was able to get the valves out of the valve bodies, but it wasn't easy, had to use brass drifts and 3 pound hammer and be very careful no to scratch anything or the surface of the body.

i need to know what all is pot metal in this thing as the metal place i am going to cannot work with pot metal. only aluminum and steel/iron.

you can see where the one pot metal piece was broken, it was this way when i took it apart. sux.

i plan to take everything to a place called Metal Rehab near my house. they have a very unique process that is not acidic for dipping and removing rust.

i think my pictures just suck because my dad looked it over and says he think it is rebuildable with some good cleaning. the sealing surfaces seem to be okay, just very light surface rust and not on all of them either.

i took the clutch pack apart too and that is all worthless and will need to be completely replaced. metal on metal and the cooper was welded together on some of the plates. you can also see where someone put a clutch plate in that was cut in one section....it was not broke, but cut. there was no piece inside the pack to fit that hole. it was weird.

you can see all the sludge that came out of the pain. nasty stuff. i cannot get one of the fluid tubes out, i am try to be patient so i don't damage it like i did the one to the front pump. i also cannot get the rear pump out because i cannot get those tubes out either. patience patience.

the pieces that are laying on the towel are setup like the schematics, you can see the springs and valves out to the sides of the bodies. it is hard to see though.

Are the valves supposed to move freely or have some resistance when they are in the body?

i tried to lay everything out for the pics, but remember my camera sucks, so if anyone really needs better pics i will take them with the good camera.

if this doesn't seem to want to work, does anyone have a good transmission they can sell me....pm me or email me or something.

later dudes,

Hank

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Assuming no springs inserted, valves should all move freely of their own weight. Really would not waste time on that trans though as it looks and sounds trashed & sat in water too long. Don't think you can repair the broken spring locator without distorting body-- but maybe. Hopefully someone comes thru with one close and reasonable.

If you do work on it, then the entire valve body except valves, springs, end & separator plates is pot metal. There's the odd piece of aluminum here or there but for practical purposes consider anything connected with or to valve body all pot metal. I would not send that anywhere for any kind of process. Try getting a shallow pan with some kerosene or solvent, letting it sit for a day or so and then use nylon brushes in the bores--something like a bottle or gun brush. Air to blow it out and fine nylon scrubber if needed to polish---nothing with lint. Take particular care when working with the low range servo. Those springs are pretty hefty so make some kind of holder per what the one in book looks like. If the valves still don't co-operate, then I think the water has corroded the pot metal to a point beyond saving.

The rest of the trans hard parts is steel or cast iron except bellhousing, bushings and again, the odd piece of aluminum or plastic.

If no one ever comes and gets it, I have a '56 Ultramatic in my parts car that I'll sell you. I cannot promise how good it is, but it HAS to be better than that!

they do not move on their own weight. they don't move with the spring either otherwise i wouldn't have had to pound them out.

i am so pissed off.

Don't worry Henry! We'll find you one, and if I was you I'd put a '56 trans in it, they're a LOT better than the '55 and a direct bolt in. Also, if you come across one and it's from a Senior car, I have the correct driveshaft flange for a Junior, so you won't have to hunt one down. '55s are different.