Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Unless you want to buy an "off the shelf" rebuilt carburetor from Kanter or Max or the like, I've always subscribed to sending mine out for rebuilding, as long as it was a good core, to Daytona Parts who I believe based on a bit of experience is the by far the best in the business. They get about $475 for a total rebuild, including full cosmetics, for a 4 barrel. Obviously somewhat less for a 2-bbl.

This is what the water distribution tube looks like, it's almost as long as the block.

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Guess I should have asked before getting involved with a local carb shop. Surely would have solved me a lot of $ and headaches. Wow thanks for the pic. I was looking at my engine last night trying to figure out what you guys were talking about. It was suggested that I look for bubbles in the radiator.. is this a sign of problems with water distribution tube? BTW I got the uv temp gun now the fun begins.
OTG

Looking for bubbles in the radiator is a diagnostic for a blown head gasket. There is usually a white-ish smoke coming from the tailpipe when the head gasket is leaking.

Some owners of these 22nd/23rd series Packard have fit electric fans in front of the radiator to provide air flow at slow speeds and while idling. The fan is controlled by a switch usually mounted under the instrument panel. These fans are available in 6-volt versions. They are not too difficult to install. They will cool down the engine.

Some owners also install an after market flex fan. These come in different sizes to fit a variety of applications. These fans will also increase air flow at low speeds and have less resistance to air flow at higher speeds. They too are readily available in the after market.

What temperature rating does your thermostat have? Usually, a 160F is recommended. Some owners have installed 180F thermostats only to replace them later. The 180F thermostats limit the operating temperature to a narrow range on the high side.

Have you double-checked your radiator cap? Make sure you have the type that fully seats/seals in the neck.

One more thing. Does your coolant circulate through the heater core, or do you have it shut-off? Circulation through the heater will give you a little more coolant capacity.

Good luck and let us know how you solve the problem.

(o {I} o)

I think this was touched on in another thread a while back: Is there a big cooling benefit to making/modifying a custom fan shroud?

Not a significant benefit unless the fan is mounted at a considerable distance from the radiator. Typically the leading edge of fan blades should be 3/4 to 1-1/8 inch away from the core and in such a condition a shroud would not add significantly to the air flow.

Bottom line, probably won't help but can't hurt.

For what it's worth, I had the same symptoms when I first got my '50 Custom (356, Ultramatic). At speed (35-55) the temperature gauge would hover just between midpoint and hot. While idling, it would creep rapidly towards hot.

My problem turned out to be a 180F thermostat that was not opening completely. I replaced it with a 160F NAPA thermostat ($6.87) and the temperature gauge has remained midpoint ever since even on hot, humid days.

I read that you replaced your thermostat, I don't suppose it's possible that your thermostat was installed backwards (upside-down)... it's been known to happen.

There are a lot of bad thermostats around these days, that fail after a short time or are no good when new.

I have had one fail after a year or 2, then had to put in 2 or 3 more before I got a good one.

For a 1950 car you should use a 160 for summer, a 180 for winter and a 4 pound rad cap. Check your owner's manual or repair manual for details but that was the general rule for most cars.

You can test a thermostat by heating it in a pan of water with a thermometer. Do this while your wife is not home.

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Good advice for a lot of things.