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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#21
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HH56
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Thanks. As I said, don't own one of those anymore but didn't think there was that much to wear other than lever holes. At any rate, any repro of parts not still available would surely be well received. Your light bulbs are a perfect example.

I know some things I and maybe others would like to see repro'd would be accessory items. From some of the threads recently and items or leads requested, it seems a lot of people would like to accessorize their cars yet other than in junk yards, or the rare NOS that surfaces, those items are just not there.

Posted on: 2010/12/7 21:31
Howard
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#22
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Joe Santana
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On my 40 160, the numbers are 333534 (which I think is the original softer metal (smooth finish, lighter metal color) and a cast one which is rough, harder steel and matches your part book number somewhat... it's 360425 (P)1. Why I have one replacement and one original may be a result of the factory changing these out after Feb 1940 because of complaints.

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Posted on: 2010/12/8 1:59
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#23
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RogerDetroit
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Just had a nice long chat with Tim Cole (see post #11) and we discussed that while a lot of parts in the shifter linkage need improving the first place to start would be the shifter LEVERS. They are mounted on the steering column and the parts numbers are:

First and Reverse: 3.328 #360425
Second and Direct: 3.329 #360426

Please see the Packard parts diagram in my post #17.

I also reviewed post #22 from Joe Santana and the parts he is looking for are the shifter lever - he cited one part number 360425.

So it appears a consensus is building for those parts.

I will keep you posted as to our progress.

Thanks.

Posted on: 2010/12/12 22:46
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#24
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Tim Cole
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Thanks for the kind words.

I have actually never driven a Packard that I couldn't shift and never had the linkage jam on me either. But I had some good teachers from the old days.

Let me recall my first lesson me on a '42 180 with a zillion miles on it.

1) Use two fingers keeping the shifter pulled toward the steering wheel. Move the lever to neutral counting ONE.

You should feel the detent snap into neurtal before proceeding

2) Release tension on the lever to change gate to the
2-3 range and count TWO.

3) Move the shifter into second counting THREE.

Once I got the hang of this I could actually shift gears quite rapidly if I wanted (including a Hollywood Darrin).

The key tip I got was "NEVER PUSH THE SHIFTER TOWARDS THE FIREWALL" What happens is the shift lever will move both column shafts at the same time and lock up the detent.

Hope this helps.

Posted on: 2010/12/13 10:55
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#25
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Owen_Dyneto
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The key tip I got was "NEVER PUSH THE SHIFTER TOWARDS THE FIREWALL" What happens is the shift lever will move both column shafts at the same time and lock up the detent.

AMEN to that!!

It had been noted earlier by someone that in addition to the external linkages, shift problems could be within the transmission, specifically with the interlock faces and detents. Someone else indicated that they had looked at many of these from the post-cane shift era and never seen problems. I had occasion to examine the detent mechanism and interlock with JHH yesterday on a transmission thought to be from a 47 Super Clipper, and of unknown mileage and care (or lack thereof), though the transmission itself showed lots of wear in the synchronizers and OD unit. But the interlock, balls, detents, and detent recesses looked almost "as new", just the slightest indication of where the ball "ramps" into the grooves. The old file test showed the surfaces of the detent blocks to be extremely hard. Just an observation, for whatever it's worth.

There was just a stub end of one of the linkage rods remaining, and it had a very thin bronze (or brass) bushing with snugly fitted into a rubber sleeve inside the end of the shifter lever. The other shifter lever had no such arrangement and was simply a bored hole to accept the end of the linkage rod. There were no other linkage ends to examine but this arrangement led me to think that perhaps the bronze/rubber sleeve arrangement was not used at every link/lever connection and it's purpose may have been more to insulate the steering column from transmission/engine noise and vibration than for facilitating the shifting action.

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Posted on: 2010/12/13 11:23
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#26
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fred kanter
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What finally fixed yoiur shifting problem if you fixed it yet?? We have in stock dozens of the new style cast iron shifter levers with the large hole. We have one iwth the rubber/bronze bushing but find no reference to it in the 48-up service letters on the site.

Posted on: 2011/1/18 12:19
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#27
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RogerDetroit
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Hello All:

Earlier in this thread I wrote how Motor City Packards was thinking of reproducing the shirfter levers (on the steering column) that fit the 1939 to 1942 Packards - part numbers 360425 and 360426. That is NO longer the case.

After reading Fred Kanter's latest post (#26) that he had "dozens" of levers in stock I decided to call him. I confirmed with him that there is a readily available source of NOS levers at $66 each.

It was my mistaken assumption that this part was difficult or costly to find. And that is NOT the case.

Even if MCP were to build a repro part out of most modern alloy that was case hardened and corrosion resistant it would not make sense when you can get a fresh NOS part at a reasonable cost that will last much longer than any of us will drive our cars.

So, I am glad that Fred and I had a nice chat. MCP already had a copy of the original blue prints for the part, had worked it up into a CAD/CAM program and ready to machine up a prototype. Now we will stop that process.

Meanwhile, treat yourself to a fresh set of NOS shifter levers, follow the instructions in the Service Bulletin regarding the alignment of the levers and pay attention on making a smooth shift from one gear to another and that should keep you out of trouble.

P.S. I also spoke with Packards1 (Joel Ray of Patrician Industries) and he says that the shifter lever with the bronze bushing inside a rubber donut is part 360419 and it fits all 1951 to 1954 Packards. It will not fit 1939 to 1942 Packards.

Posted on: 2011/1/20 22:57
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#28
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bkazmer
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Roger, could you send me a PM? I have a CAD/CAM question and don't want to hijack the thread.

Posted on: 2011/1/21 9:31
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#29
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Tim Cole
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Hi All:

I am glad that the shaft levers are available.

I was looking over an 18th series car with very worn levers. They flop back and forth on the column.

Please note the following 1941 Packard Service Letters

1941 Vol 16 No 1

1941 Vol 16 No 10

Packard was having problems when these cars were new.

Hope this helps.

Posted on: 2011/1/24 18:45
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Re: 1940 Manual shift
#30
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Joe Santana
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I was/am having problems shifting. Using the 35-41 repair manual and the 38-39 repair manual, I tightened up my linkage. The manual says almost never are the shift level on the steering column un the engine compartment the problem. Stop returning them to the factory! Get the slop out of the linkage.

It shifts much more solidly now, BUT at a stop sign where the street is on an incline, forward or back, in neutral, if the car rolls a hair, it locks up. Locks completely, NOT in gear. Letting out the clutch just drags the rpms down and I haven't let it out all the way. If by wiggling the gear shift lever I can get it into ANY gear,once the car rolls a bit, I can let out the clutch and the problem is gone. Then I can get into any gear and go.

The manuals discuss a loose interlock block. I finally figured out where it is located. I pulled back the front carpet, took out the plate over the transmission, loosened the 6 bolts on the cover. The cover is loose, but the forks are attached. I loosened the bolt holding each fork on each shaft, but they don't come off (I tried prying them away with a screwdriver), the lid still wouldn't come off.

I know this is basic stuff, but it's new to me.

I tried to tighten the interlock block from the outside by turning the head of the bolt, but I think it's designed to spin. You have to remove the cover, gain access to the internal end of the bolt with the nut and tighten that. The manual says any gas station mechanic would know to tighten the interlock block...if he can get to it.

Should I be ready to take this to a transmission shop? Will they know what to do?

Posted on: 2011/9/12 18:36
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