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BODY: Final masking. Paint tonight.

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The Duchess has paint and it's an astounding job, esp considering the condition her lead she was in.

Yesterday I remounted the items pulled off the firewall before painting.

This morning I'm going to get some help adjusting the timing, etc. Then it's off to the upholstery shop.

In another thread "Trunk interior Finish for 1940" it shaping up that there's a rubber matting like the bumpy or beaded material on the firewall on the floor of the trunk under a fabric/carpet material of hogs hair that's a scratchy, mottled brown, covering the mat and the sides of the trunk. It would be nice if there were some standards for trunks.

DOORS: In a thread on the front windows, 1940 Front Door Window Mechanism, what specifically connects the primary arm and the secondary arm to create a scissors action is still a question.
The pins for the rear windows to replace the window gears are done. This is the second set since I mistakenly sent the pin from the wrong mechanism to the first machinist.The purpose was to replace the gear with the worn down teeth (that let the window crank handle turn freely without raising the rear window. Both sides were shot. I found replacements from a donor of unknown make and vintage with good teeth all around.

CHROME: It may not be the final piece, but I also picked up the horn ring yesterday.

HEADLIGHTS: Replaced the broken headlight adjusting screw. Knocked out the remaining pieces of old rivet in the one sent from David Moe and in the headlight itself, then using Q-bond super glue, two small rivets into the holes, and Q-bond filler powder, secured it to the top position and reassembled the headlight. I also replaced the adjusting screws in the other positions with a Ford kit from CWMoss restoration parts.

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There aren't words to express the anticipation, now that the Duchess has arrived at Beaverton Auto Upholstery. Theron has started on the rear door panels. The installation of the top starts Monday.

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Exciting times!! Keep us posted, I've very much enjoyed following this project.

Thanks, OD, lots happening now.

CARPET: Wilton wool cut pile, dark taupe or dark gray, is what I'm after. Beaverton Auto can make them, but it seems Kanter or Hirsch has ready-made sets, maybe there's an alternative recommendation. I couldn't determine from their websites, or cost. I think they were pretty reasonable.

Of course, Quiet Ride has taken 2 weeks to ship a generic, off the shelf, floor kit. That has to go in first.

RUNNINGBOARD: One runningboard has been stripped of rubber but needs to sit in the rust tank over the weekend at American Metal Cleaning.

DOOR STRIKERS: I haven't given up on SOMEONE finding striker plate cores for me, but ordered new ones to get the ball rolling.

Joe, your long and tedious journey is coming to an end. It is going to be a spectacular Packard.

(o{I}o)

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I must have missed the fact that you were looking for these. Is this the part on the B-pillar? And do you need 4?

Right, West. But I do have 1 I could turn in as a core.

A 1377 needs 4 strikers for front and rear doors, all the same, Parts section 30.466 #353195 (or 377621). I was trying to find usable cores because I'll be charged $120 for 4 new cores (on top of the $260 for new rubber). Almost $100 each for striker plates. Yikes. But I must have, so ordered from Max Merritt on Friday. Asked in a voice mail if they would give me some time to find used but usable cores. I'll prob hear from them today.

Okay. Let me know. I think I might have seen a couple at the museum.

Could you tell me who did the restoration on the steering wheel Thank you in advance