Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Don't walk away... RUN!

There may be parts on that car that could bring some surprisingly good prices on eBay (or not). For example:

Custom Grill.
Packard emblem on Grill.
There is some stainless trim that's unique to the Custom Club Sedan.
Any intact Cloisonne medallions on those hubcaps stacked on the front seat.
Auto-lite starter motor for the 356 with its expensive-to-replace solenoid setup.
Chrome trim on the glove box.
Stainless inserts in grill and bumper.
Jack (you would be amazed at what they have sold for).
Rear Window.
Oil bath air cleaner.
Overdrive unit with all the electrical goodies.
Electromatic Clutch parts.
Transmission.
The 356 engine if it's not toast.

I could see getting $750.00+ for the above parts without stretching my imagination too far. Parting it out might justify the cost of getting it but certainly not for $5,500.00 under any circumstances. Besides, I assume you want to drive it and not put it on blocks on the front lawn just to enchant your neighbors while you sell it off piece by piece. I can understand the compulsion to want to save a Custom Club Sedan but it ain't gonna happen with this one.

Gosh... you'd need at least a quart of Bondo for just for those rear dents alone.

Ok, new information:

Owner reports that the car is all there, including all the pieces I see missing inside (radio, buttons, knobs, levers, door panels + wood insert panels, window & door handles/cranks).

Also advised me he has all the pieces for the outside of the car that are missing: all stainless bright trim, cormorant hood ornament, fender skirts, door hardware (handles & latches), gas guard, radio antenna, has a pair of factory foglights, and the car's original back up light. He also has all the front grill pieces for the car. It is missing two short pieces of the beltline chrome trim on one of the quarter panels. Advised me he has all the original hubcaps with cloisonn?, as well as a set of powdercoated rims to go with the car.

Engine: Not seized, states turns over by hand, and he has not used the starter on it. Advised the last time the engine was started was back in 1962 or 1963. Doesn't know the mileage. Stated in the past people took the water and fuel pump. Is including a rebuild-able fuel pump with the car.

Body & rust: Two big dents from tree accidents in the back. Stated what looks like a crunched front is actually just the bumper hanging on the car, that it's not fully bolted on. Advised there's nothing wrong with the front. All rust is surface rust. Stated the only place there is rust through is in the drivers front and passenger front floorpan.

Transmission: all there, including all components of the Electromatic clutch. Has the overdrive.

In light of what I now know, does this positively affect the car's overall worth much from, let's say scrap, to anywhere close to what he's asking?

Quote:

In one word - No!

No!
....but we all love to dream...

Quote:

Yes.

Quote:

No!

Forget the price for a moment and look at the big expensive things a "fixer" car might need that vary from one car to another:
1. Rust - this car has some visible and you know there is a lot more that is hidden.
2. Body damage - obviously visible
3. Missing parts - Once a car becomes a "basket" case some parts are always missing, regardless of what the seller says.

This car looses in all three major areas. It is a parts car and should be priced accordingly. If you want a fixer car of this particular model try to find one that is not disassembled, no obvious rust, and no body damage that cannot be easily fixed. Then pay $5500 and you will save money. The rest of the restoration will cost the same on any car (my experience is $20,000 to $50,000 depending on how perfect you want to go).

Thanks all. Appreciate the candid responses, and wise advice. You are right..it is fun to dream.

"Run Forest.......RUN!!"

I know what you'll all say. Yet, I'm still interested in the car. I figured I would at least go take a look at it in person.

I've never performed a visual inspection of a Packard before. What specifically should I look for on this model? Other than the obvious major flaws this particular car has?

Well, generally i look for signs that most of the damage, that seems obvious on this car, is coming down the road or has been repaired poorly.

I also like a test drive, make sure it's shifting smooth, no noises, no hesitations from idle to cruising, idles smooth.

So yeah, not much more to look at on this one