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I used a pipe nipple or coupling that was close to the correct size. Just measured what I thought it needed and went to the hardware store and got the closest smaller diameter they had. Inserted the rope, beat on the pipe (gently) with a mallet until rope was seated. It was a tad smaller diameter so not a perfect solution like the tool but no leaks so apparently worked OK.

yes this is pretty similar to what i did. i just tapped on the seal with a hammer and that thingy i used in place, then i pushed down with my hands, then cut and that was it.

i'm wondering if the bearing is actually contacting the crank on each side of the lip...hmmmmm

i had to tap the back of the crank to get it to go on...it was tight....see the picture of the lip of the rear bearing squashed really tight between the rear main and the weight?

i bet that is what is keeping it from turning.

poohhhhhh.

Hank

you know, come to think of it....the box was all damaged to hell and the crank had been dropped by the shipping company....i hope the damn thing isn't bent.

(note slight irritation)

Hank

Just remove your rope seals and do a trial fit up without them. That will tell the tale in a hurry if the crank is damaged. Judging by what I can see in the photos, the rope seal is not compressed anywhere near enough and is clamping the crank.

Appearances are deceptive - for something that looks so robust, crankshafts can be easily bent; hence the reason they should always be stored standing upright and never laying flat.

Based on your description of the shipping experience, I'd think it a prudent idea to have the crank checked and straightened if necessary. Any good automotive machine shop that does engine work should have the necessary equipment.

PS: I assume you did check for proper crankshaft end-play?

ross, will try without rope seal. thanks for the idea!

friend has a lathe that if the rope seal idea doesn't work i'm going to throw it on that and dial gauge it for bends.

I can't do the endplay....the thing wont move period.

Hank

Took off all main caps, turns freely. Put caps back on one at a time and hand tighten, when I do that....no turn. Did it one cap at a time leaving off the other four... Hand tighten that one cap... Won't turn.

Dad is coming and we will plastigauge. Something isn't right. Bearings are marked .010 and jack says crank was done .010 also. So not sure what is happening.

Front of crank is marked with white marker... 010 and 010.... I'm guessing rod/main turned 010

Well me and my dad racked our brains and finally decided to put in the standard sized mains from my original block on the number three main.... Torqued it to 90 and bam it turns.....so the rods are 010 but the mains are still standard.

We put on a rod with the 010 bearings and it was fine.

i guess even for that matter the mains could be .001 or .002 and those standard bearings i had would still work since we know it is not 010...that only leaves one of three....STD, .001 or .002. would have to mic for sure and/or plastigage.

can't this dang thing just go together! doesn't it want to run again!

Hank

Henry, Patience, patience, patience. This work is critical and it has to be right on. Good decision to try the old main bearings. Usually, .001 or .002 oversized bearings are not used on a turned crankshaft. They are used to take up wear where turning is not necessary. You probably have standard main bearing journals and .010 undersized rod journals. Depending upon how much finishing was done on the main bearing journals, you may be able to use .001 or .002 oversized main bearings. Measure, measure, measure.

(o{}o)

yes, patience....gotta remember that in my youth.


I looked over the X-ref and found the modern front and rear seals....ordered those from rockauto for 18 bucks shipped.

i figure its out, easy to get to, and seems like a good time to do these.

rear bs40613 felpro
front timken 472924

Hank