Packard Forum Index » General

Hello, I recently purchased a 1951 Packard 200 Deluxe 9my first project car). Everything seemed to be there but it obviously has many things that need to be worked on. After cleaning the cooling system, replacing water pump, cleaning the brake lines and rebuilding the brake cylinders and replacing the fuel tank I was able to get the engine started. Unfortunately in order to get it started I have to jump start it. Even though the battery seems to hold charge (6.0 to 6.4 volts) it will not start without jumping it. My guess is that since the Wiring Harness is in desperate need of replacement (insulation cracking and falling off) it may be shorting out somewhere. Any suggestions on where I can find a good quality at a reasonable price Wiring Harness? Or any suggestions as to what else could be the problem? Also, a new gas tank sending unit was installed but since the old one had no wires connected to it I'm trying to find out how to wire it. Any suggestions on how this is wired or does anyone know where I could get diagrams?

Thanks, PackBoy

Wiring diagrams are on site herepackardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?268.

The sender is grounded via tank mount then has a single wire direct to one side of gauge. That is part of the main body loom going from trunk area to instrument cluster. If memory serves, the wire drops down out of loom and trunk thru a hole in a trough like channel between trunk floor and outside body panel just by the license plate. Other side of gas and temp gauge goes to a voltage regulator which is a small rectangular can located in the bottom center of cluster between two smaller circuit breakers. Hopefully you have the correct sender. It has to have approx 80 ohms at empty and 10 ohms at full. Important the wire is not grounded directly as the gauge can burn out.

When you jump, what exactly do you do? The coil is fed off ignition switch directly. The start switch also is fed from ign switch, thru trans neutral safety switch if you have an Ultramatic then to carb starter switch and then to starter solenoid. Any short would be smoking as there is no protection on that part of circuit. On the duplicate part of your question, JHH brought up a good point. If the voltage is dropping via bad connections or too small a battery cable, the spark may not be adquate

Replacing the loom properly will be expensive but depending on how authentic you want to be, others have used univeral looms. If that is something you want, here is a link to a supplier having one with proper 6v gauge wire.stores.ez2wire.com/StoreFront.bok

Attach file:

---

  (46.91 KB)

G'day Ray,
Even though you're a long time member of PackardInfo, I see it's your first post, so like to say

Hi Howard, thanks so much for all the information. The new sender I got from Maxmerrit is identical to the old one that was in the tank which I also had to replace. I'll keep you posted.

Ray

Thanks Mal. Yes, a couple of years ago I started looking at packards and that is when I registered but not until a few months ago is when i actually was able to get the one I'm now working on. I know the basics about cars but I'm sure that with all of your (everyone's) help, ideas, support and suggestions I'm going to get this baby up and running soon.

Ray

Re your problem of only starting with a jump, you might take a quick look at the size of your battery cables. It's (unfortunately) rather common to find the unknowning have installed 12-volt battery cables which are totally inadequate. For 6-volt, 1-gauge battery cables should be a bare minimum and "O" gauge much preferred. Also you might clean the terminals paying particular attention to the ground connection.

Thanks Owen, I'll definitely look a the cables. One of them is wrapped with electrical tape which it is obviously not a good thing.

Thanks Ray

Regarding the jump: just because the battery shows 6.4 volts when no current is being drawn does not mean the battery has the oomph to turn over the motor. Essentially, the batteries electrons are energetic enough to register 6.4 volts at rest, but there are just not enough of them to provide the necessary amps once the current starts to flow.

Charging an old, sulfated battery will not solve this problem.

You can test this by looking at how much the battery voltage drops when you try to run the starter. If it drops below about 4 (I think), your battery is probably toast.

Tom

Hi Tom, Thanks for the suggestions. I'll test the battery per your suggestion and post the results.

Ray

Another very meaningful way to testing a battery is to check the specific gravity of the sulfuric acid with a battery hydrometer. A reading of 1.275 in all cells indicates a sound, fully charged battery. Any cell that refuses to rise to this level with repeated charging has sulfated and is probably NG.

The sulfuric acid is about 18%, enough to warrant care, safety goggles imperative and gloves recommended.