Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

The two slot round ones are available in a few sizes from Restoration Specialties. McMaster has a much wider range of sizes in round but the gripping tabs are different -- multi pronged over the entire hole instead of just the two slots.

Agree with Brian on the removal -- either can be a pain. If you have access to the retainer, I've had some success with one of those double ended sharp pointed instruments used for machining layout. Trick is getting under the tabs and gently lifting them off the stud without bending or breaking the stud. If the retainer is rusted though, chances are the tab will break off before it fully releases or won't have enough spring left to grip well again.

I have had good luck just twisting speed nuts as I carefully pull them off. I use needle nose pliers to grab the speed nut and then twist as I pull. Prying, I have found is more difficult and there is not always room to do it this way.

(o[]o)

IIRC, The stainless lies flat against the fender. Script studs go thru it and the sheetmetal. The clips (and rubber washers if any) go against the sheet metal.

That's what I suspected, but I wasn't sure so I thought it best to ask for some advice from more experienced forum members.

Thanks for the clarification, Howard.

Both of my Pats have been repainted. IIRC, on at least one of those cars, it appears that they pulled the trim, but incorrectly installed the retainers against back of the stainless, then applied the trim against the fender. (Bad monkeys!)

OK, as promised, here are a couple of pix from my tired, old, but unrestored '56 Carib Hardtop, showing the retainers (and seals) that fasten the Packard script (6478520) to the trunk lid. That script only uses three retainers and seals; the fourth, shown at upper left, is for the tip if the "V", which has a larger diameter pin.

In the close-up shot of the retainer (444209), you can just make out the "two slot" design (as noted by HH56). The garden-variety, multi-pronged, round push nuts won't do the job, here.

To remove the OE retainers, I had initially used a small, flat-bladed, pocket screwdrivers (often given freely as a promotional item) to pry the prongs up a bit, but now wonder if that might have distorted and weakened them for reuse. I later found that a set of small dental type picks (from JC Whitney) would let me walk them off the pin, but it helps to have a tool (needle-nose pliers, forceps, etc.) to hold the retainers - lest they fall out of reach.

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As to the script, I no longer have a car to look at that has the stainless so am going by failing memory that they go thru both.

Guess it all depends on the length of the studs. If short or perhaps broken when removed, there might not be enough length to go thru both. How much does the stainless bulge when the retainer is between the two. The clips are thin so if not really noticeable then perhaps not an issue either way.

The retainers on my 400 were on the inside of the fender, not pressing against the stainless.

HH56 wrote:

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Not really noticeable, but my two Pats are dingy old survivors, not show cars. While the parts books shows (same) seals also used at this locations, I'd bet $$$ that they were left off in the course of the repaint.