Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Maybe this will help (your bleeder fitting may have a screw in the end used as a dirt shield):

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thanks a lot I know what grease fittings look like so I should have no trouble finding them. thanks again

Bleeder screws are generally cadmium plated to prevent corrosion and allow them to be easily removed, but of course the plating isn't "forever". The previous advice by PackardV8 about using a proper wrench to loosen and tighten is very appropriate if you're to avoid rounding off the fitting. Best is a simple 6-point box wrench, but in addition to a 6-point socket (not the most convenient when bleeding brakes), if you don't have one perhaps you should purchase a good tubing wrench set which offers nearly all the advantages of a 6-point box wrench but can be slipped over the tubing when dealing with brake and fuel line situations. A set of these is a good investment to make. A "flex-box" is an alternative for the bleeder, although like a socket you'll keep removing and replacing it to allow the brake fluid to flow out and be caught in some sort of container; the tubing wrench, like a regular 6-point box wrench, avoids that situation and can be kept in place. Picture to follow in case you're not familiar with these types of wrenches.

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What ever kind of 6pt boxed wrench u get be sure it has enuf offset to clear obstructions on the backing plate. Usually quite abit of offset in the wrench is needed for brake bleeders screws.

Touringman -

The image of the wheel cylinder provided by JD in KC, above, shows typical design of bleeder screw that's been around for decades and is likely what you'll find if the wheel cylinders on your '38 have been replaced.

However, the OE design, which JD also touched upon, is shown in the attached image - an excerpt from the 41-47 Clipper parts book. The same details are listed for 120 through 21st Series. It consists of a shorter bleeder screw that's internally threaded to accept a "plug", which is really nothing more than a slotted, round head, machine screw, cinched with a split-type lockwasher.

Found a couple of this same type on a '50 Pontiac survivor that now resides across town. When it was determined they were OE, the owner made a full set of new ones by reworking modern style bleeder screws. He even duplicated the special bleeder hose for service, as shown in his shop manual; made his own hose fitting (from a longer machine screw, IIRC) that threaded into the end of the bleeder screw. Lotsa of tedious work, but he's a bit of a stickler for details and enjoys a little challenge.

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I prefer a six-point socket (and ratchet) for cracking stubborn old bleeder screws loose - that is, AFTER a liberal dose of your favorite penetrating oil. Let 'em soak about 20 minutes. (Flat rate mechanics didn't have to worry about the effect of decades of rust or the availability of replacement parts, back in the day.) The full grip of a six-point socket or box wrench beats a line/flare wrench, when you can use 'em.

Of course, you'll need a wrench to open/close the screw during the bleeding process. Along the line of PackardV8's recommendation for an offset wrench, know that they used to make special wrenches for this very job - as shown below. Sometimes the extra length of the handle is a help, and other times it's a hindrance - depends on the vehicle and elbow room.

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I wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for their help with my 1938 aka clara. Her breaks now work thanks again