Re: Gas Line for 47 from Pump to Carb.
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Home away from home
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From what I've read on brake tubing is that they coat it to protect it against corrosion, some use a zinc-rich paint, teme( a lead/tin ally) and epoxy.
With all the good information that I have gotten. I'm thinking about using the Copper/Nickel tubing, I'm just not sure what the color looks like, but it sounds like the best way to go.
Posted on: 2012/9/29 12:35
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Re: Gas Line for 47 from Pump to Carb.
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My experience with flaring steel tubing with hand flaring tools differs somewhat from Tim's experience, with good tools and a little practice it's not much of a chore to get good flares. So steel is the way to go if OEM appearance and material is that important to you; otherwise cupro-nickel is easier to do and will last for centuries. Appearance at least on the brand I use is slightly brassy but not enough to attract comnment like copper would.
Posted on: 2012/9/29 12:57
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Re: Gas Line for 47 from Pump to Carb.
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Webmaster
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I replaced all the lines in my car with steel tubing and use a simple $12 hand flaring tool set in a vice. Not one leak.
Posted on: 2012/9/29 13:20
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-BigKev
1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog 1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog |
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Re: Gas Line for 47 from Pump to Carb.
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Home away from home
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I like them to seal at around 11-13 ft lbs of torque or one finger on a wrench.
Given the castings are all pretty much hammered I suppose it doesn't much matter. However, I remember Bill Lester was messing around with the carburetor on his Rolls Royce and the casting fell apart. We had no choice but to glue it back together. I would not want to have that happen on a Caddy 12 or a vacuum tank. When working on things like this a trip to the plating shop just seems to make more sense. Heck, if you really want to be fancy take the stock to the plater and have it done beforehand.
Posted on: 2012/9/29 22:23
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