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Thanks Ross

Now I know where to start looking for the problem. If I remember I did not replace any of the bushings as they all looked to be in good shape but did not check clearances. I do remember installing the spool that bridges between the input and planetary set. Don't know if there is a right or wrong way to install it? I'll put a gauge on the converter and go from there. Can't thank you all for the great info.
This project might just get done despite me.

Would like to see your roadster.

Here are some pictures of the manifold build

Again THANKS to all
Ken

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"Would like to see your roadster."

Here's Ross's Roadster in the Owners Registry and his Project Blog about it.

Thanks Ross
Pretty cool machine. Like the home made grill and radiator shroud. Nice job. Lot more fun making non-traditional hot rods.

Ken

Well I finally did some pressure readings. The front pump reg. press reading was off the chart. The gauge did a rapid cycling action from about 20psi to pegging out the needle at 100psi even bending the needle. Front pump relief valve reading was in spec at 65-68 psi. But when I read the converter inlet pressure I got zero,(0),nada,nothing at idle in neutral, low, high, and reverse. Even reving up the engine in neutral I got nothing.
Any advice on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Ken

Two things come to mind. The first is that the convertor inlet valve is stuck, or part of it is in backward, etc. That is the upper left valve in figure 36 on page 12 of the service manual.

The second--and I had this happen to me once--is that there was a hole not punched in the bell housing-to-case gasket.

The path of the fluid from the valve body into the convertor passes through that gasket and into a passage that goes to an annular groove on the outside of the convertor bushing. It then goes into the convertor through the 4 holes that are drilled in the convertor stub shaft.

In drive you should have 70-80 lbs before lockup, 8-15 afterward.

An old Packard engineer explained to me once that Packard charged their convertor to such a high pressure to avoid cavitation and noise during hard acceleration. The pressure drops when direct engages to prevent countering the pressure on the direct clutch piston, and because at that point cooling of the convertor is not needed. At kickdown the convertor is again charged to high pressure to push the direct clutch piston back away from the clutch disk. That is why most Ultras do not have such an instantaneous kickdown out of direct--it takes a fraction of a second to charge the convertor to a higher pressure and push the piston back.

Thanks for the info

Funny you mention the gasket hole not being punched. I do remember when reassembling this thing the first time that there was a gasket that did not have one hole punched out so I punched it out. Can't remember if it was the bell to case gasket tho. Would the gasket "no hole" also cause the front pump reg. pressure to read wild like it does? Bounces rapidly from about 20-100+ psi? Time to pull her out and disassemble again. I love doing things twice. Thanks again for all the help and info. I love this site!

Ken,
for including your '38 Eight Club Coupe in the Registry. Looking forward to seeing photos when it's done.

Can't answer about the fluctuating pressure without spending a long time looking at the pressure diagrams.

Don't pull the thing all apart yet. Just take the valvebody off and apply pressure at the convertor test port. You should then get a massive flow of air through one of the passages where the valve body was attached (if the gasket is good), and a smaller flow of air out of the upper cooling line port.

That sounds easy. Ill try that to start.
thanks Ken

Ross

Well I put the old girl up on the lift and pulled the valve body off and put air to the test port. Lots of air came out of the case and thru the cooler. Next I pulled the valve body apart to find just what you said to look for. I had put the inlet valve in backwards. How stupid was that?
Can't thank you enough for all the help and advice. You saved me a whole lot of time and busted knuckles.

I have one more question and that is what type fluid do you recommend? I think it was here somewhere I read that type "F" is what most everyone is using, but would like to hear what you think.

Thanks, thanks and more thanks
Ken