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After putting new distributor ends (DR #7922) on the ignition wires and triple-checking the firing order, I gave each cylinder a shot of oil and pulled the engine over twice by hand and everything seemed OK. I installed the plugs and tried to start the engine but wasn't getting fuel to the engine. Removed the Carter filter and attached a hose directly to the fitting on the carb. I used a small funnel and poured gasoline until it would no longer flow into the carb. Reconnected the filter and tried again -
IT FIRED! Just as Colin Clive had proclaimed many years ago, I yelled out "It's Alive!".
I let it run for about two minutes and shut it down. I don't know how many years ago this engine was last fired, but It sat for a long time. No untoward noises, but a loud exhaust.
Now to get the new exhaust system installed and see how it sounds when muffled.

Randy, glad you are back at it!

I was following your blog and gave myself a kick in the arse.
Arse is an Aussie word I am told. I didn't even have to open a can of "startUbastard"

"Arse is an Aussie word I am told" Unlikely, amongst many other well known four letter words, I think we owe the English a debt of gratitude for this one too!

Symphonic to the ears I'm sure!

I found two vital trim pieces buried in the trunk and decide to install them so the stainless trim below the trunk would not get accidentally damaged. The original screw retainers were rusted beyond use. The parts book said they were 6-32 thread so I picked up some at the hardware store and slipping them into some pushnuts they became the new retainers. I love it when a plan comes together without any hard thinking on my part. Note the vertical stainless trim piece covering the seam between the two panels. This piece is not on all 56 Packards altho it is listed. Most have a phillips head screw
holding the two panels to the trunk panel. I have no idea why they didn't use it on all Packards. The seam is hidden behind the license plate and no one ever notices it.
It was a little difficult getting the screw/nut combo into position to enter the holes in the corners.

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The diecast barrel of the trunk lock was cracked as usual. Since I didn't know the key code for the ignition or trunk I decided to disassemble the trunk lock for the key code. I did have trunk keys but they were generic keys that fit but no code.
I disassembled the lock and cleaned it. It took a bit of wiggling but the cylinder finally came loose - code is P1345.
I reassembled the lock and reinstalled it I applied a hose clamp as shown in the pic so the casting would not break any more. I hadn't seen this particular version of the link to unlock the trunk, so I pictured it also.
I don't think the trunk lock had ever been disassembled before. When reattaching the link, a rubber piece goes on first, then the link, then another rubber piece and lastly the "E" clip. Later trunk locks have the "E" clip replaced with a flat washer and a cotter pin. My 400 has the cotter pin as the retainer.

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I finally fired the engine up to listen for any noises. Everything seemed normal till I looked at the Oil Gauge. It was pegged as far to the right as it could go. I shut it down and thought about it. Either the gauge was in error, the sending unit was bad, the wire was grounded OR I really did have that high an oil pressure. I checked the wire by pulling it off the sending unit and firing it up again. The gauge never moved, so the wire is not grounded. I picked up a direct reading oil pressure gauge at the auto parts and installed it. There is a pipe plug alongside of the sending unit. I removed it and screwed in the fitting for the direct reading gauge. I fired it up again - same result. The new gauge read 100 lbs pressure. Just to be certain I removed the gauge from Best Other and hooked it up to the new line in the Patrician. Same result. Nothing left to do but pull the pan and the pump. The pump as I thought was the very latest oil pump from Packard as it had the bolt securing the pressure relief valve. I removed the bolt and extracted the spring. I could not remove the valve itself. The spring is supposed to be 2 5/16" long. This one was 3 1/8". Al Kish was reading the Stude manual pertaining to the 56 GHawk. They said to use a 23/64 drill bit to engage the valve and pull it out. I had been under the impression that the valve was just a solid slug. It is not. It looks more like a rifle cartridge.
After Dave Czirr referred me to STB56T-20https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/56T-20.pdf
which had a line drawing of the valve, it became clear that the Stude manual was correct. (why didn't the Packard manual have that hint??) I was able to extract the valve but it was difficult. The valve had old burnt oil (varnish) hindering it. I ordered a replacement pump from Magic Mike in Minnesota. I will try to buy the spring from Max or Kanter so that I can have a late oil pump as spare. Before you ask, I didn't install the Olds pump as I didn't want to lose the vacuum wipers.

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Too much too little pressure!

What should the pressure be?

What are the olds pump and oem pump pressures?

Let the ride decide Quote:

Stock is about 40-45psi. Olds is about 60psi, either standard or high volume.

I've seen stock Packard pressure relief sleeves with "burnt" oil on them which causes them to stick somewhere -- usually at zero psi, but max psi is also possible. The Olds oil pump has a similar sleeve valve, but MUCH BIGGER, so it is less susceptible to sticking. Even the Pontiac check ball style will stock open if it gets some "crud" between the ball and the seat. However, the Pontiac cannot stick closed (max pressure).

IMO, the Packard oil pump design is flawed in many ways.

Craig