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Hello All,

Thanks for the compliments and suggestions on how to fix the surging problem. The Onyx single color is uncommon and works well on the car. The photos do not do it justice as the bright work really sparkles against the black body color. I may need to install an electric fuel pump if problems persist, but for now I'll try and do without.

Good news, the surging problem has been fixed.

I did not think the surging was ignition related as I had just been through this system trying to find out why the car was hard to start, keep running, and backfiring. The Clipper acted to me like it was starving for fuel at the higher speeds. During the engine compartment rejuvenation, I installed a new ceramic element in the Carter fuel filter. I thought that maybe the new element had become clogged or was malfunctioning. To check this I removed the element. I bench tested the element by blowing through it. It seemed to be unclogged. I then took the car for a test drive. Removing the fuel filter element did not fix the problem.

During the previous problem I had also checked out the fuel pump, it had good pressure (4 - 5 lbs) and good flow, at least at cranking speed. I was about ready to remove and inspect the fuel pump and fuel lines when I had an idea. What if the after market air filter I installed was too small and choking the engine (running out of air, not fuel)? This would be easy to check. I removed the pleated paper filter element and component parts and reassembled the air filter housing without them. I took the car for another test drive. Problem solved. The car would rev freely and without any stumbling or surging.

Next thing to do was try and fit a larger filter element. I found one at the air filter stock at Autozone that was the same diameter as the first one, but taller for a 75% increase (3.5 in. high v 2.0 in. high) in filtering area. I fitted this new larger filter element to the lower half of the stock filter housing. I did not use the aftermarket lower plate on the new element as I had done with the smaller one; just let the bottom of the element seal against the conical shape of the lower housing. This gave me added space to use the taller filter element. The air filter was assembled as it had been with the older smaller element. Then there was another test drive to confirm the fix. Fix confirmed.

I was surprised that this was the cause of the surging problem as these modern type elements have a very low air flow restriction, and I would have thought size would not be that critical. The filter housing snorkel protrudes into the housing by about four inches. I do not know if this affected the effectiveness of the smaller filter element. I also wonder how the car drove with the original oil bath air cleaner element. I had never driven the car any distance or at higher speeds with this one fitted. It was dirty and needed servicing when I received the car. I have no idea how badly restricted the kapok stuffed part was with accumulation of dirt. By the way, the Clipper is starting easily and now running, as it should.

Attached are a series of photos showing the new and old filter elements and the assembly process. This is probably more than you ever wanted to know about converting an oil bath type air cleaner to accept a modern pleated paper element.

Another strange problem solved. I enjoy solving mysteries (many of them being self-imposed).

Take care,

(o[]o)

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Interesting read and good sleuthing! Something for people to check that they may not have thought of especially as filter elements (paper, oil bath, and pot scrubber type) get dirty and can cause restriction in air flow at higher RPM.

John,

You've also solved the "mystery" of the muffler blowout. Your air/fuel mixture was naturally rich with the restricted air flow, leading to accumulation of unburned fuel and when it caught--wham!

Your old oil bath filter would not have had this problem, as even when it's clogged, it does not restrict air flow, just filtering ability. Except for the mess, they're the preferred heavy-duty filtering system-- just check out heavy equipment that works in extreme dust, you'll find the oil bath type almost exclusively used.

From post #141 above:
"I did not use the aftermarket lower plate on the new element as I had done with the smaller one; "

I'm curiuos about the 'after market lower plate". Does it have a part numeber on it and is it an AC or purolator or what brand of adapter is it??? I have something laying around here some where that lookslike it mite be such an an adapter but never really knew what it is.

Keith, the after market air filter I bought was an Edelbrock brand. I got it at my nearby Autozone store. It has three parts: base, filter, and top. The base is for a much larger carburetor top opening, but worked inside of the original filter housing. There are photos of the first setup that I posted earlier in the project blog. If you are interested in pursuing this, I would say to go to your favorite parts store and see what they have for sale. Thanks for the interest.

(o[]o)

Edit: Look at post #49.

Certainly I can understand that some folks don't want to learn the older maintenace skills or do the work which can be a bit dirty with an air cleaner, but oil bath cleaners and VERY efficient, probably at least as much and perhaps more so than paper elements - witness their use today in all manner of off-road construction equipment all the way to marine diesels in cruise liners. They are very non-restrictive when properly maintained, perhaps even more so that paper as they partially utilize a sharp change in direction of the air flow to divert dirt particles to the oil reservoir.

Personally I find part of the enjoyment of the older cars is learning how and doing the of-the-era maintenance chores - it helps give you a good understanding of what experiences were like with these cars in their day.

Yes, I'm an unabashed purist, as you all know already.

Dave, well said.

(o[]o)

Hello All,

I've been busy on the Clipper, but not a lot of progress to report. My latest efforts have involved polishing and waxing the exterior. This job comes under the title of work. It is taking some time to do the car. I am using a Turtle Wax polish and cleaner and a Meguiar's cleaner wax. The polish and cleaner is doing a good job of removing surface dirt and small imperfections. The cleaner wax does a nice job of removing wax and cleaner residue and providing a nice shine. The Onyx color is coming back to life. One thing about lacquer paint is that as long as there is some there it can be polished. Of course I can't polish out the dents, but I can make them shine.

During this job I have taken off small trim pieces to better clean and polish them and to restore the finish under these pieces. As I moved to the front of the car I removed the hood ornament and the "Clipper" script. While doing this I had to move part of the hood pad to get it out of the way to access to the rear nut on the ornament. This is where the polishing and waxing job took a sidetrack.

When I moved the pad back it was obvious that it had reached its service life. It was badly soiled, was coming apart on the underside surface, and was serving as a big dirt trap. It was beyond cleaning or saving. Removing the pad was an easy process. I spread a painting tarp over the engine so as to catch all the debris that would fall. I simply pulled the mat from the hood and then lightly scrapped away the remaining material. I then folded the mat and placed it in as sack and took it to the trash cart. Lastly, I wiped down the surface with some mineral spirits.

It had the original gray fiberglass type insulating material. I was sorry to see this go, as it is no longer available. I began looking around for a suitable replacement. The previous owner sells replacement mats, but I did not like the look of the light colored mat being offered; although, this is being widely used. The mat he sells for the senior 1956 senior cars is much more attractive, but pricy.

I recently had to buy some foil-backed bubble insulating mat for a house project. I thought this type of mat should work as its construction looks like the core for the replacement 1956 seniors mat. I went to my nearby Lowe's store and bought a roll of the insulating material. I then cut three pieces to size (48" wide at the rear, 42" wide at the front, and 41" long). I decided to use a stack of three pieces mainly for looks, not added insulating value. I think the thicker look will go better with the car. I trimmed the edges after gluing the three pieces together with a 3M spray adhesive. Then I painted the edges and the side that would be showing with Krylon gloss black. I thought the bright aluminum would be unattractive and too obvious. The black color will blend in to the underside of the hood and not be obvious. I used the same 3M spray adhesive to fasten the mat to the hood.

I have not run the car since installing the mat, and do not know how the mat and adhesive will perform in a warm engine compartment. Hopefully, it will be just fine. If it doesn't work out I may have to call Dwight. Now back to the polishing and waxing.

Thanks for taking time to read all of this. Your comments, as always, are welcome and solicited.

(o[]o)

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Looks good.

I tried something similar on my 55 Pat after I first bought it in 1999. I even (carefully) removed the hood so I could power wash it and clean it with solvent (forget what kind). I then bought a generic hood pad from a local company specializing in Tri-5 Chebbies and cut it to size. I also used an industrial strength spray adhesive.

The fix lasted about 5-6 years and then one day when I popped the hood about half the pad was laying on the engine. I removed it and didn't try to install another. Of course driving around in 100F+ temps in Southern Nevada probably didn't help the adhesive any.

Good luck with yours, longevity-wise.

Craig

I like the color of that hood pad! I installed my yellow colored one (purchased from a PAC special projects vendor) and it has served me well thus far. I too used a 3M adhesive to hold it in place. Nice Clipper you have there!