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Kev wrote: "Then I can try to start car feeding it from a gas can..."

Just don't pour from the can to the carb. Get a lighter fluid can with a closeable top and fill it with gasoline. Use that to feed the carb initialy. It's even a bit dangerous doing it with the lighter fluid can. I do it nearly every week with the lighter fluid can. Just keep your face as far back from the carb as possible and do not squirt the gasoline while the engine is cranking.

Well what I meant by feeding it from a gas can was that I would drop a line from the fuel pump into a gas can, and use that as my temp gas tank until I can get the acutal gas tank and fuel lines delt with. The car is not moving anywhere, so just going to use the gas can for testing running in place.

where can i get this PI judging guide ;0) ????

Corbin hose clamps, though distained by many for their "cheap look" are correct for all hoses save one on the water pump. Red heater hose was all the rage some years back for its flashy look but is incorrect. Last time I looked it was still available.

Cli55er, most PI stuff is sold at their various meets and some regions have their own items. Here is main contact info. Call or write and Carol Mauck can help you out on the judging guides. IIRC, kinda pricy and in sections.

http://www.packardsinternational.com/

Well a few small things today before the sun went down. I finished stripping the fuel pump shield, and got that into primer. Will paint with engine color tomorrow if I dont get side tracked with other things. I also reinstalled the road draft tube. I need to do a little reseach to figure out what the proper type of clamp is used to that. Right now I just used a modern hose clamp.

So I decided to see what condition the Ranco heater valve was it. As you can see by the first picture, it was pretty gnarly. So I tossed it into the blast cabinet and spray it with some glass bead. It came out looking pretty good. It need a bit more cleanup. But it was enough to check it's condition. The mechanism itself was frozen. I bathed it PB Blaster and rocked it back and forth and got it break loose. But the mechanism is still pretty sticky. I think this is because of the corrosion it side unit and how pitted everything is. Also the valve plunger and base seals are bad. You can see the corrosion in the last picture. I guess I am going to have to send it out to get it rebuilt.

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i think there is a guy on ebay that sells them with you sending your core back to him. pops up on ebay from time to time.

Well there is a guy near San Diego that rebuild them, so I just sent him an email to get an estimate. If his price is too high, then I will send to it to Joe Hudacek in Wisconsin.

Damn I was hoping to keep everything in-house. But I cant find any repair parts for them.

Hmmm..... I found this the Napa website:

http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=6601000&Description=Heater+Valve+Repair+Kit

If I can get the lever mechanism itself working freely again, perhaps I can take it apart and replace the seal.

You amaze me the way you work that Napa website. That's the same piece some vendors in Hemmings charged $20 for.

Just be careful with the holding tabs-slow and patient. They really used some brittle stuff on the valves. The brass tabs because of the length and curve want to split and the steel ones that hold the control mechanism on want to break.