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OK, piece of cake now. You'll only need to use one terminal and with the relay info, Kev can make you a professional drawing.

How do we know if the sw. post on the relay is always hot and therefore grounds thru the dash sw. OR if the relay post for the dash sw requires current INput????


Was the relay and Dash sw. bought as a set or from individual suppliers????

Relay is the same 6v VW headlight relay that's been used before--Jay used one for his OD relay replacement not too long ago. Coil is independent 2 wire and contacts are standard NO,NC + common.

I think this should do the trick! Just verify the terminals on the switch. The power hooks to the batt terminal on it. (Click on the diagram below for the larger, clearer version)

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Kev, Thanks for updating the Bosch relay diagram. My version was pretty crappy. The factory foglight switch on my 1947 Super Clipper has two outlet terminals and the Packard foglights were orginally wired with no relay and with only one wire from the switch to the lights. I have been thinking of installing a rear fog light using that spare terminal.

Thanks to all who replied, especially to Big Kev for the excellent diagram. I think I got it!

One more question: Can I run a wire from 87A to the second fog light? ( This was one of my reasons for using a relay)

If not, how do I connect the two lights to the lead from 87?
Is it a simple as just connecting the three wires together with,say a wire nut, or is there another type of connector?
I know it is as simple question, but how do you do it?

No, 87A is the opposite of 87. So when the relay is not energized, Power flows from 30 to 87a. When the relay is energized, 87a goes dead, and power flows to 87. Never use a wire nut on a car, they are not recommend for the vibration a car is subject to.

You want to either solder the wires together and then cover with heat-shrink tubing, or use a crimp style butt connector.

What I recommend is running a single wire between 87 on the relay and the closest fog light. Then you connect that to the wire or terminal on the fog light and then correct another wire to that same connection and run it to the second foglight. Similar to how the diagram shows.

As you can see from the attached picture, I got the fog lights working. Thanks to all who replied, especially Big Kev for the excellent diagram.

I just followed the diagram and was careful to hide wires where I could. I used 12 ga wire (16, 14 and 12 were suggested, so I went with the thickest). I used a 20 amp in-line fuse because the fuse in the switch was 20 amp. I taped all of the connections after I crimped the wires. I only had to go back once and change the ground to the relay, and the lights went right on.

The switch under the dash looks nice and original to a 40ish
car. It has a light so that the knob glows when its on. Pretty cool !

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Glad to hear your got everything wired up and working!