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Howard, thank you for this window information. Please check for PM reply. David @ Larry's Packard Shop

Looking at the photo of the driver's door, I have not yet been able to find the top stop for the window--the pair of screws in two long slots.

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My mistake. I'm bad. For some reason I got it in my mind you were working on a 2 door. Hardtops had the upper stops because there was no other way if something else was out of adjustment to prevent the glass from raising high and pinching or digging into and possibly damaging the roof side weatherstrip when the door was opened or closed.

Sedans don't have that problem because of the door frame so only had the lower adjustment slots to regulator. The glass is still adjusted to be flush when in the down position. When in the up position the regulator will be all the way up & there will still be a small amount of glass travel room in the channel before it hits anything.

You do need to make sure the glass is adjusted properly at the bottom. If too high on the regulator, aside from not being very comfortable when resting your arm on the glass edge, glass could be pushed up into the channel pretty hard when the regulator is all the way up. If adjusted too low with the edge below opening then there might be a small gap at the top when window is raised..

This photo shows the panel for the driver's door: the anti-break brace is installed to protect the left side of the lift frame from twisting or damage, the cylindrical brace on the right side protects the right side of the lift frame from twisting or damage. Window glass is adjusted on the regulator to be right at the top of the window. This was a quick and easy fix, to install the left brace. Both left doors are done with internal pieces--next is hooking up electrical switches to test up and down travel of glass. Other photo shown, that brass tee under the front seat that directs fluid to both back doors.

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February 2, 2014--COMPLETION OF HYDRO-E-SYSTEM,1954 Packard 300. Thanks to all of you who submitted information regarding this project. I enjoyed hearing from each of you and what I learned about post-war *electric windows is extensive. When I last posted I had not submitted the Hydro-E pump for rebuild to the folks in FL. Once that was rebuilt, and reinstalled everything was completed fairly quickly. The new pump works very nicely. Upon reinstallation of the pump there was a small electrical problem which I luckily found at the left rear door. The (3) wires were not in the correct (*Cyl*Bat*Mot-yellow-green-red) order. Once correctly arranged things went well, performing the up/down testing of each window cylinder. I did have a leak at the right door pillar where there was a 90 degree brass fitting. Once corrected, and trans. fluid cleaned up, there was no more leak. The driver's window did not want to travel all the way to the top, but after simple adjustments it works just fine. The car was driven for the first time in about 18 months. FUN CAR! Please write me if you have questions. This was a horrendous project. I Hope the next project is not this hard: REMOVING THE STEERING GEAR BOX TO RESTORE POWER STEERING.

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David, congratulations on completing the overhaul of the hydraulic operated windows on your 1954 Cavalier. Not many owners would have gone to the expense, effort, and time to have a period correct system. Your work may inspire others to do the same.

Why do you think removal of the steering column and box is needed to fix your power steering? Normally, repairing the pump and cylinder will fix problems. If you do need to remove the steering box, it could turn out to be as demanding as your just completed window project. However, it seems you are up to taking on these involved jobs and successfully complete them. Good luck and keep us informed.

(o{}o)

REGARDING STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL: due to the amount of "lost motion" in the steering wheel while driving --and--due to the slight clunk sound inside the steering gear box when turning the steering wheel "left-and-right" I am guessing that a total reworking of the steering gear box is needed. Indeed I dread working through a removal, but I suspect it necessary. I will seek information and recommendations from the forum before deciding which action to take. I'd sure like to drive that heavy car using its factory power steering.

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There may be nothing wrong with your gear box at all that would require removal and disassembly. It's more than very common that as these cars (all makes) got to higher mileages the play that developed can be corrected simply adjusting the roller cross shaft end play; it's really rare to encounter a car with moderate to high mileage where this adjustment doesn't return satisfactory results. This adjustment is external to the gear box and requires no disassembly. But READ the shop manual thoroughly before adjusting as making it too tight can trash you steering gear in short order.

In the absence of specific instructions, what I've generally done is to jack both front wheels of the ground and use a scale on the tie rods (or I guess you could also use the tire or brake drum) to observe the effort (lbs) to pull the wheels across the center point. Gradually make the adjustment in small increments until the force just increases as you pass the steering center point (wheels straight ahead), then back off slightly, tighten the lock nut on the adjustment, and try a road test. Do NOT attempt to eliminate all free play at the steering wheel, and inch or perhaps a bit more would be typical of a correctly-done adjustment.

However, if you found your steering gear box was completely empty of gear oil, or found it was filled with grease instead of heavy oil, then the chances improve dramatically that it require removal and evaluation. I wonder how many folks routinely check the steering gear box for oil when doing routine lubrication?

If you have power steering also make sure the control valve adjustment is correct. Ross gave an easy procedure for checking and adjusting the spool valve so there is no lost motion. It is on the forum somewhere. I'd search for it but either the site or my Comcast connection is very slow today so the long wait between page loads makes it difficult.

HH, the site is slower than a snail here as well and I'm on a high speed connection. At least for me this has been an "on-again, off-again" situation for a couple of months.

PS - let me also add my congratulations to David for the restoration of the hydraulic system; though I've never done one myself I do have some appreciation for the challenge and the costs involved.