Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Quote:

In what way was the SM wrong?

As far as I can tell everything is in the right position. I followed the instructions in the SM on page 44 and when I grounded terminals "A" and "B" of the control switch, the short arm moved first to the right and then to the left. However, I didn't see the compensator (levelizer) bar rotate/move nor was there any voltage on terminal "A" and "B" on the leveling motor. These two terminals go back to one side of the solenoids. All these checks were done with the T/L switch "off". I'll check the solenoids out as well as the T/L switch tomorrow to see if there's voltage.

When I disconnect the control link rod at its connecting link, which end of the link do I rotate/move and how can I tell if its lowering the rear end when I have it on jacks?

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You would move the link that was still connected to the control switch. I had my car's rear wheels on 'ramps' just for that purpose. You should probably have jackstands as well for safety reasons (if the car's rear end suddenly lowers as mine did). Always have another person with you while working undrt the car.

Does it make a difference if the T/L switch is "off" or "on" while the rear end is on ramps? I know it's suppose to be off anytime the car is raised, but I don't know if the ramps would simulate NOT be raised. I'm still not totally understanding/seeing the short/long bar positioning you've mentioned. As I look underneath the car, all the bars are in front of the compensator motor. Is there voltage on the two compensator motor terminals at all times or just when the T/L switch is "on"? I hope to give this a try this weekend. This is completely new territory for me so thanks for all your help.

Perhaps this photo and diagram will complement bhappys suggestions.

As long as the weight of the body and frame are on the axle or tires--front and back-- ie if jackstands are under the axle or support arms or ramps under the tires then the car would be considered on the ground. Any time there is air under and the axle & tires are just hanging, then it is on a lift.

The bars in question are those highlighted. Notice the short one on the drivers side is in front of the compensator center rotation point and the long one on passenger side is at the rear. If the limit switches have been bypassed, it is possible for those to make a 180 degree sweep and wind up on the opposite sides. When that happens, because the 56 limit switches work off a cam inside the unit, they cannot work as designed. With bars reversed, the motor with the regular normal direction command to level will drive the bars into the assembly with nothing to stop them. If the fuse doesn't go quickly, damage usually results.

I followed the instructions in the SM on page 44 and when I grounded terminals "A" and "B" of the control switch,

A word of caution: The instructions in manual are for the 55 setup. While the 56 operates identically electrically, the component location and description of procedure differ. The schematic below is the 56 showing all the "hidden" pieces.

The solenoid bus bar should have voltage via the 30 amp fuse and with solenoids open there should be nothing at either terminal on the motor to ground. Only one motor terminal gets voltage at a time and a frame ground connection internal in the motor is the other side. Because of the fact that the two separate windings are connected together inside the motor, you will get a false reading because of feedback thru that second coil if you check either terminal when the motor is being powered. To verify there is only voltage at one wire at a time, you need to remove it from the motor and check. The 7 1/2 amp fuse provides power to the brake lights and compensator control switch. Via the relays in control switch closing after the time delay, that provides the ground to the solenoid coils to operate them. These are not the typical starter solenoids that needs a voltage to the coil. That is provided internally from the buss bar terminal on this type and so require a ground to operate. This schematic shows the optional manual over ride switch in the circuit as well. All that does is provide a ground thru the limit switches to the solenoid coils to energize them. Note there was a change in wiring looms and that wire labeled pink off the small fuse can be either pink or purple to the brake switch. I believe you said yours was purple.

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To bhappy:

The manual says that if you over run the limiter switches you will damage the gears.

The car in question was sitting level, but wouldn't do anything if I sat down on the bumper.

So I was underneath the thing looking for an open limiter switch, which of course I couldn't. Next when I closed the limiter switch with a jumper wire the time delay compensator would start to level the car when I moved the actuator rod.

So I was scratching my head because everything was working.

Just then the phone rang and it was Dwight. He said run them around being careful make sure nothing hits the frame. I unloaded the suspension to avoid overloading the motor.
Down on the ground, and the unit was working perfectly after 45 years in storage.

However, I suspect that the long bar may have a slight bend in it because the car sat slightly higher on the driver's side. I didn't do anything about that because when the owner sat in it the car was level.

WoW thanks!!! This cleared up a lot of the mud from my eyes. So as long as the tires or the axle are supported, this is considered as the car being on the ground and it's ok to turn the T/L switch on to see if the car lowers or raises like its suppose to. The limit switches have not been bypassed because up until a few days ago, everything worked just fine. The car leveled itself perfectly after I lowered it and turned the T/L switch back on the night before. The raised rear end occurred sometime during the night because the next day was when I noticed it. This baby is fascinating and frustrating at the same time; but I'm enjoying it....I think. Thanks for everything.

As long as the underdash switch is on, the car will try to level itself on occasion due to settling or whatever.

One other poster I can remember had a problem that sounds similar to yours. Fortunately he was near and heard the leveler start but instead of turning right back off it kept going. Believe he was able to yank the battery cable quickly as the car was being worked on and cable was loose. Turned out the solenoid had chosen that particular time to stick--from internal rust or corrosion, I think. Even though the control switch told it to turn off, it couldn't.

You might also consider that possibility. Unfortunately, there is no way to visually see the internal condition of solenoids so might be a good idea to remove the two wires from motor and verify neither solenoid is active. If OK now, then keep the switch off if you are not close. The average on time to level even after a big load change should be only a few seconds. Think about replacing the solenoids if you can find no other reason for the movement. They are available from vendors or Cole-Hersee. There should be an aftermarket part number on site or if not, easily available from some who have replaced them.

They are available from vendors or Cole-Hersee. There should be an aftermarket part number on site or if not, easily available from some who have replaced them.

Cole-Hersee #24046.

Wouldn't you say the solenoids and motor are good if the short link moves left and right when I ground the orange and blue wire from the solenoids to the control switch? If they are good, then why doesn't the long bar on the drivers side turn when the short bar turns?