Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

thank you Wes, there are some more open pieces near the generator and starter and... so I think I will repair some wire parts the whole length (Generator to regulator) and some I will connect just under the tape where possible.

This shop does offer some fabric-cable and even the correct marking.

https://www.kabel-schmidt.de/KFZ-Elektrik-und-Zubehoer-kabelschmidt/Kabel-und-Zuendleitungen/Textilumflochtene-und-lackierte-Fahrzeugkabel/

The colours seem to be a bit too bright, but time and engine smoke will solve that problem. By the way, the "G" in the wiring diagram seems to mean "Green" and not "Gray"?

pic shows the opened wiring loom near the horn relais and I think it will be easy soldering some new ends on. If the repair-points are not at the same area the tape will not be bulcky afterwards.

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hi there!

I dicovered a nice easter surprise paper on my gastank-filler, can anyone decode it?

2362 2845 is the chassis number, but the rest?

892 2362 2845 W8W NE RADVA 69 REQ. NO. ..

thank to all archeologists!
Michael

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more details

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Not sure about the 892 but bet others will know what it is. As you said, the other numbers are the body and sequence numbers for the car.

Believe the print on the slip has deteriorated so it was hard for you to read some of the type. Believe what you see as W8W should be WSW which is white side walls;
NE should be HE and would be a fresh air heater and defroster;
On the other two, RADVA would be a radio with vacuum antenna;
69 is the trim code and is tan striped broadcloth.
Believe the last two were filled with pen or penciled number(s) if something else special was requested on the dealers order form but others will have to verify that thought.

I don't see a paint code but since Anniversary Gold was a special color for those 1500+ cars I don't know if it used the standard R code for special paint on the slip or was left blank.

thank you!

RAD and VA are still in place and also does the HE

WSW are there and very old, but not that old and on later wire wheels...

beige-brown cloth seems correct

REQ for required? NO... Number ... hardly readable section...

the second chance will last a few days... weeks, there might be the same paper more readable on the glove-box

but first I?m going through the chassis... (tank is very rusty inside ) wheel bearings are cleaned up and freshly greased, some brake work done..

So far, no one I am aware of has come up with an explanation for the initial 3 digits on the slip. The paint code is between the model number and serial number. There is something there and it looks like it might be an 'R'.

oh yes! using Sherlock Holmes special tool the "R" is visible!

I?m sorry to ask some stupid beginner questions again... (should I open new threads for each of them or is it ok to continue the story of 2362 2845 just here?)

?1
for repainting the engine, I?d like to take the distributor out. does ist have a single-fit position (like on old VW-beetle) or a multi-tooth grip that will turn it slightly when pulling out? in that case I will have to turn the engine to zero 1 cyl. ... best on the front with less space or on the drive shaft?

?2
how to remove the instrument cluster and the switchboard with the radio (for wire work)... might be so easy that it is not told in the body section of the handbook, but I don?t want to destroy something

thank you for supporting
Michael

The distributor will go in two positions: correct or or 180 degrees out. You only need to remember which way the rotor is pointing.

It is so difficult to make the instrument cluster panel come out because of the location of the screws that I would try to make any repairs in place. There is a bar that holds all of the switches and it is held to the back of the pushbuttons with two screws that are hidden in between the switches. Drop the heater controls down out of the way first.

Here are a couple of photos provided by BDeB showing the location of the two screws Ross mentioned and the plate which holds the switches. The wire loom may have some clamps around it which will need to be removed before the switches will drop down very far.

Above all, if you are not going to replace the loom be extra gentle and careful not to bend the wires any more than absolutely necessary. The old rubber and fabric insulation is most likely so brittle and rotten that any sharp bends or undue movement can cause it to fall off in chunks.

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