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Is the overdrive governor removal the same on my 48 ?

Quote:
Yes.

Thanks

John, you may find that it does not take too much to unscrew the governor. Large diameter threaded hole in the OD housing with just a few threads. I used a large channel lock (water pump) pliers and it did not take very much to break the gov loose. I was over thinking the job and coming up with all kinds of ideas to grasp the gov since I do not have the special shaped wrench. Easy does it.

(o{}o)

Thank you - Is there anything to be careful of when removing the governor - I just want to take it off to test and clean. Also, will oil leak out of the hole if left open ?

JW's correct. Once it breaks loose and moves a quarter inch, you can unscrew it by hand. I bought some cheap pliers and ground them thin, allowing me to get a grip on it.

Oil won't come out (unless you tip the overdrive).

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Ok - Great pictures -

Thinking about this oil line set up. Even if I do not have the oil return at the bottom of the block, I should have a direct shoot from the oil pressure side to the upper inlet, and a route through the oil filter? Might that make it so there is very little filtering of the oil? Help me thing this through.
This post was supposed to be after the pictures of the Duchess oil filter lines photos. See post 30?

The plumbing Joe has was described in Service Letter 15 #12. Joe has a later engine and the oil return hole was already present since it was added for 20th series production. Prior engines needed to have the return hole drilled and those instructions are also in that SL.

When Packard first went that route, they just rerouted the lines but used the full flow filter fittings already present and still had issues. In a later SL (15#19) there was a restriction orifice to be placed in one of the fittings to limit flow thru the filter. IIRC from a later bulletin it worked out to approx 10 percent to the filter and 90 percent to tappets.

To go to that partial flow plumbing you will need to have the extra return hole. Without it you would just be feeding pressured oil to both sides of the filter and unless one side has a slightly lower pressure or resistance, doubt if you would have much if any flow thru the filter.

The one thing that is still strange is your engine went all these years without difficulty and with apparently quiet lifters so what changed all of a sudden.

My block was manufactured in August of 1940, so very late, my understanding is in the late 1940 blocks there is no return at the bottom only half way up the block, this is how mine is. So if I am understanding this correctly if I do not have the bottom return the two feeds will not work.
The reason I am getting clarification is I just had the oil canister off the car to make sure all was clear, which it was. The hole in the center pipe is very small and leads me to wonder really how much oil is getting returned to the block? Regardless of the filter being plumbed correctly or not. If you have been following my oil lines are correct, but this canister in showing outlet at bottom instead of top side of canister. (I am looking at a similar canister on ebay that has the outlet on side). And I just did a third oil change adding two bottles of some motor honey and let it run just in case there was some air someplace. Seems to have made no difference in the lifter noise. But, will run more tomorrow.
I can't imagine either why the difference. If you remember I had to replace one valve, and did a very mild clean up and hand lap in all the valves, which worked great for a couple hundred miles. Unless as stated now that they are worked in and just now out of tolerance and stem adjustment. I just got a gauge so if I do need pull the head can check valve stem clearance.
Thanks for all the help and keep the ideas coming in.