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Unless you want it for posterity, I wouldn't bother to recheck your compression. Those readings are already excellent; I agree, the engine has probably been "done".

As far as the stumble is concerned be sure you set your timing with the vacumn line disconnected and the engine idling under 600 rpm. Otherwise it can be way off (retarded) I usually do 7 degrees on those engines, but if it is a good starter, you can get away with 9. As Owen has said elsewhere, the final test will be pulling a hill in direct. By my calculation you are pulling 8.38 to one compression which is pretty tight for a cast iron head, so you may end up running 6 or 7 degrees on the road.

The other part of the stumble will be the carb. If there is one carb I've had consistent pains rebuilding it is the WGD. The 51 Kaiser, the 200 and the 56 Packup all have them and are prone to inadequate acclerator pump shot. Be sure all the play is out of linkage to the metering rod shaft, and that your check ball is well seated in the pump well. The oldtimers trick for that is to take a new ball and tap it in lightly with a punch, one tap, to remake the seat. Too hard and you won't get the ball out!

OOps, and one more idea. Don't give a moment's thought to your parking pawl problem until after the car is on the road. I fear with the way your valvebody looked you might have bigger fish to fry. No point wasting the time and the gasket til you know the full situation.

All those Park parts can be changed in the car, but its not an entertaining job. Hardest is getting the tranny in position to extract the selector shaft.

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Kev, not sure but keep in mind the new ignition systems are much different than the coil and points type used in our Packards.

You are right, any EMF will be more easily detected on the AM band.

I hope you get this solved quickly.

(o([I}o)

Edit: You can "choke" these old-style ignition systems with too much suppression.

Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it. Since the readings look good in everyones eyes, then I will leave it alone. I am going to go back through and double check all the carb settings this evening. Sunday I am flying out to Chicago, next week the project will be on hiatus. So I want to get as much done as possible before then.

One problem with the Clipper for a test drive is there is no real place to secure the battery with the fenders off the car. Plus not sure if the local police would think of me driving a half disassembled car around the neighborhood with no brake/tail lights, and a registration sticker that expired 24 years ago! But, hey if it just around the block, then perhaps not an issue. I'll just tell 'em its an oversized go-cart!

I another note I have found the information in the Packard Service Training Manuals to be far more detailed than anything in the actual Service Manual. So for mechanical "Newbs" like myself they are a great resource.

None of the auto-parts stores around here had a "screw-in" style oil pressure gauge so I could check the engine oil pressure from the sender port. I wonder if the Ultramatic Test Gauges I bought would work?

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Kev, I don't see why not. The gauge does not know whether it is measuring oil pressure from a transmission or an engine. Select the gauge that has the best range for engine oil pressure.

(o{I}o)

I tested it with the two outer gauges as the inner one was sitting a 5lbs with nothing connected, so I figured that was not best gauge to test with.

The reading was 35lbs at idle. Now I have the by-pass oil filter hooked up, so I am not sure how that affects the overall pressure. I guess I still have a nagging question whether or not the by-pass filter requires some type of a restrictor?

When I got the engine (if you guys remember) the filter was not plumed in by-pass, but from the sender port, through the filter, and back to the block to feed the upper end.

I also discovered one more thing...... my oil sender is leaking in the exact same manner as the brake light switch was, which is between the outer metal casing and the insulator. One more part to find.

Grrrrr...... I pretty sure NAPA doesn't carry these.

That sender shouldn't be as bad since it is just a warning light. Summit has several that operate at various pressures and if a lower limit could be decided, then one should be available at Napa as well.http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Gauges-Accessories/Section/Sending-Units/Part-Type/Warning-Light-Sending-Units/Sending-Unit-Type/Pressure/?Ns=Rank|Asc

Good point Howard. I forgot that it was only an idiot light on the Clipper. I was thinking I needed something specific for a gauge.

I believe this one may just be the ticket and looks like the original. Turn on pressure is 20psi or less. Folks I think we have a modern replacement!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=REB-140-1345

Ordered from Summit for $12.95 (plus shipping).

For comparison here is the sender listed on Max Merrit's Website and the Rebco Part.

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