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Got this block from Mike Franko yesterday. Thank you very much Mike.

He told me to get this one checked over to make sure it is good, but before i do that i have notice one thing about it that i have never seen before.

has this cylinder been sleeved before? looks like it from the inside, but the outside doesn't show a seam where a sleeve was put in.

any thoughts?

thanks,

Hank

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Mwasure the bore with just a good scale and report back.

First, my condolences regarding your uncle's passing. He sounds like a wonderful influence on you... the world needs more "weird" people! Don't hesitate to mention once in a while how your uncle "woulda done it." He'll be looking over your shoulder. I can't tell you how many times I hear my dad giving me one of his colorful "warnings" when I set about to cross-thread something (and "rim-wrack" it).

Second, I'll indulge in a wild guess re your cylinder sleeve. The damaged cylinder would not have to be bored out all the way to the top to receive the sleeve. Check the cylinder wall close to the top of the bore for a seam.

Really, I don't know, I'm just saying what comes to mind here-- but heck, sometimes I luck out.

Pic 1908 is rather odd. It looks like the "sleeve" is prtruding thru the side of the block vertically???? Is that bore close to 5" or what????

thanks for the condolences. he will be missed.

the bore measured 4" with my dial calipers. did not check for a seem yet.

and as for the oddity....you can't see it but the "sleeve" protrudes into the side. if you look straight on at it, it is a complete circle ring, just that one side is angled to match the block angle there.

thanks for the input guys.

Hank

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An interesting sleeve. One I saw installed on a 54 S8 didn't go all the way thru.

Machinist bored cylinder oversize to almost the entire length--left a few thousandths ridge at the bottom--maybe a 1/16" or so. Sleeve length was cut for that depth plus a few thousandths and then put in freezer to shrink. While sleeve cooled, cylinder was cleaned extensively and some kind of combination lube and sealer was applied to bore. Sleeve was installed with a device sort of like a bushing installer. Guided it for a straight start and shoved it right down the bore till it hit the ridge.

After the sleeve temp was back and stable, sealer had set or done it's thing, the block was machined and surface ground to cut the sleeve to length and then finish bored to size. With that method, the bottom of sleeve wouldn't need to be angled. No idea if V8 install different but unless it was keyed or cast in place someway, with the bottom open I would wonder what keeps the sleeve from possibly loosening and moving down.

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So, in comparison with this method... this block was sleeved "backwards" from the bottom up. (But I can't hardly believe that my guess about not boring all the way through the cylinder was essentially correct?!"

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I don't quite understand how it could be "angled" to stay in place.

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It sounds like boring and/or sleeving cylinders is an "art" that can be done different ways. If my dad was still around, he'd be a good source of info. One thing he specifically did "different" that I know of was that on any overbore, for a sleeve or not, he used an "old fashioned" boring bar that was very slow rotating. His theory was that faster boring methods caused the cylinder to heat up and expand more, and the bore would be slightly tapered, widest at the top and progressively narrower. It sure made sense when he explained it to me.

Hope these questions and comments help you get to the bottom of this mystery, Hank.

The S8 was done from the top down--essentially a gigantous drill press like milling machine that bored the oversize. After that was done, the block was moved away from the boring bit and had the cylinder cleaning and prep. Sleeve was inserted in some other contraption which went down in the bore then clamped and expanded someway to center the sleeve. Just a matter of pushing a button and the sleeve went down slick as you could want.. The actual work only took maybe an hour but there was a wait for the cleaning and sealer to get ready and temp to stabilize before the final boring or honing. I was expecting it to be a lot more involved and I guess it could have been in a shop without the modern automated equipt.

Maybe the V8 has to sit on the block surface and sleeve go bottom up to take advantage of the flat block surface when lining up for the boring.

Most cylinder sleeves I've seen are installed from the top with a counterbore to form a holding surface see the link which shows different styles made
http://www.ez-slider.com/custom.htm

Most sleeve jobs I've seen (other than wet sleeves) are different from acolds observations; they are simple sleeves (type 1, no flanges) pressed into the bored cylinder where a lip has been retained at the bottom of the bore to hold the sleeve against further downward movement. The top is then ground flush with the deck and of course retained against upwards movement by the cylinder head/gasket.