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Re: Overheating
#11
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Jim Eubanks
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Heater may be stopped up, I had one that I had to take out of the car and back flush it with pressure, rusty goo shot up in the air three feet when it broke loose.
If your car has run fine in the past that is one thing, if you have aquired the car and do not know the past history, another thing. Usual suspects are, time retarded, loose fan belt, air in block, blockage in hose and rad core stopped up. Do not know about the 34s but 29s have a honeycomb core and once stopped up do not unclog. If your 34 does not have a tube type radiator I would be suspect. Pull off the hoses and adapt a good running water hose in the lower hose, lots of duct tape will work and turn the water to it, water should pour freely out the tope hose, if not you have rad problems. Of course a leaking head gasket will cause problems and is usually evident once the engine reaches operation temp by the presence of bubbles in the water.

Posted on: 2012/5/31 19:19
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Re: Overheating
#12
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Owen_Dyneto
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Jim, 34 radiators were fin and tube.

A good backflush can't hurt. Try and find a flushing gun like the attached photo that utilizes water and air pressure.

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Posted on: 2012/5/31 19:32
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Re: Overheating
#13
Just popping in
Just popping in

wedrivethemall
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I have run a garden hose in the radiator water flows freely threw the engine.does any one have a diagram of the water pump I may be missing something.

Posted on: 2012/5/31 22:06
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Re: Overheating
#14
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Terry Cantelo
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Hi Tim,
When I first got my 34 late in 2008 I suffered this annoyance for about 9 months. I did all the fixes as suggested by the guys on this site to no avail. About a dozen rad flushes, oil cooler repair, water pump check etc. To be fair the car did improve slightly but not enough to be safe. The conclusion was the most silly and unlikely fix you could imagine. When out on a run in the summer my passenger complained that her feet were boiling and could I turn the heater off which I told her was off. The next day I decided to look at the valve on the side of the engine by the vacuum control and Bijur unit, which was always in the fully open position. On taking it off it was a bit cruddy but not enough to stop water flow. When I replaced it I decided to shut it off completely and since then I have had no more trouble with overheating and the car remains cool even in temperatures of 70 to 80 plus unless you stand in traffic for a while. Even then it still does not run excessivly hot. Perhaps the valve was designed to be turned off during the summer and on in the winter.

I hope this helps
regards
Terry

Posted on: 2012/6/1 1:32
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Re: Overheating
#15
Just popping in
Just popping in

wedrivethemall
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I have turned the heater valve of no change.I took the top radiator hose of and run the motor .There is no water coming out.If i run a garden hose in the radiator the water will flow out of it.Can anyone explain what the impeller on the pump is supposed to look like.

Posted on: 2012/6/1 10:12
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Re: Overheating
#16
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Owen_Dyneto
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Can anyone explain what the impeller on the pump is supposed to look like.

The impellor isn't significantly different than any other impellor on a water pump, it looks like a wheel with vanes. I have a spare 34 pump in the garage and will take a picture for you later in the day.

Posted on: 2012/6/1 11:03
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Re: Overheating
#17
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HH56
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After you see O_D's pump, Mal has posted quite a few photos of various year waterpumps on the Wade's Workshop blog. Also information of how some clever machinists they use are able to reseal and rework them using modern parts when original parts are hard to come by.

A few photos which might give you an idea of construction are starting around page 82http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=81042#forumpost81042 but photos are all thru the blog.

Posted on: 2012/6/1 11:07
Howard
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Re: Overheating
#18
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BigKev
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Perhaps there is a clearance issue with the impeller, as in too much gap, and it is just causing the impeller to cavitate.

Posted on: 2012/6/1 12:48
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Overheating
#19
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Owen_Dyneto
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1934 Eight and Super 8 water pump impeller.

PS - easy way to check the impellor clearance is to put some play-dough or modeling putty on it and install the pump, but don't forget the large and quite thick copper ring gasket. Not only does it seal the opening but it allows the pump to rotate on it's eccentric to adjust fan belt tension.

Just a little added info: as to seals for the bearings, they are just everyday seal numbers available at any bearing store (as are the bearings) though if you install sealed bearings they really don't perform any function except cosmetic. As to the shaft seal, remember this a open (non-pressurized) system, good old traditional graphited cord or ring packing will outlast any modern lip seal, though it will require a bit of tightening perhaps every 20,000 miles or so. Remember to tighten it so that you get a very occasional drip from the packing - this lubricates the shaft. Duplicates of the original packing wrench are available from York Restorations in CT.

Attach file:



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Posted on: 2012/6/1 13:42
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Re: Overheating
#20
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Tim Cole
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Try putting the hose into the cylinder head outlet with both hoses disconnected. If it backs up there is something wrong with the water jacket. If it doesn't back up then put the lower hose on and fill to level with the cylinder head outlet. Start the motor. If it doesn't spout water then there is a pumping problem.

Perhaps the water jacket was repaired incorrectly. Water enters the jacket through a slot in the front, then flows around the oil temperature regulator, then through 9 holes in the jacket plate one parallel for each main bearing. If the holes are not the right size - problem. I don't have one but I think 1/2 inch diameter. No holes, no flow. Holes too big - overheating in the rear cylinders. The holes should be located for bottom to top flow. The rear of the jacket should not be open.

Now once I was dealing with a 37 Buick Limited that would blow the water pump gaskets. It had no flow because the radiator was clogged and so it built up pressure. In the file was a receipt for radiator work - $45. Well that is not my idea of a good cleaning. $450 get's a good cleaning by virtue of rodding and sometimes things just don't work out except with a new core.

And I assume the temperature gauge is buried. The only spec on that pump is clearance between impeller and housing .025 -.045, and end play .005-.010. For the pump not to work at all would require a completely wrong impeller. Or a missing set screw.

That heater story is a hoot. I always shut those things off unless the car is going somewhere in the middle of winter. There is nothing worse than having it leak inside the car. And those old firewalls are like a furnance anyway.

Posted on: 2012/6/1 18:05
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