Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hey,

Today I've made a lot of pics of the car, so you can see what has to be done.

You can watch them here:

Packard to do pics


Grtz.

Xavier

Doesnt look that bad to me. But then again I went to rust hell and back, so I am biased.

I worked for 20 years in body shops in Canada when rusted rocker panels and fender panels were common. Have NEVER removed a body from the frame to replace rocker panels or floors. It is not necessary.

Have also made my own rocker panels, inner and outer, with a brake and also using just a piece of angle iron, clamps and hammers.

One time I replaced the rocker panels on a 1947 Dodge 8 passenger sedan, a limousine type body with jump seats in the back. The rocker panels were so long the shop brake was not long enough, I took the sheet metal to a shop that had a brake 12 feet (4 meters) long. Made the rockers by hand, inner and outer, and welded them to the car in 1 piece, also made and installed new floors, and made a gas tank from scratch.

I am shocked that there are no old fashioned panel beaters in Belgium that can do a proper repair for less than the cost of a new BMW.

Rocker panels are straight, no curves, and are easy to make. The main difficulty in welding them in, is in supporting the body so it does not sag when you cut out the old pieces. This is not a problem if the rocker needs only a small patch.

Would it be to your advantage to take the car to a lower wage country where such work can be done more reasonably? I am thinking of Italy, Spain or Greece. Italy in particular, is famous for body shops that can make a complete Ferrari body with a tree stump, hammers and some sheet metal.

I'm with Big Kev on this. From the Shop Estimate you received I was expecting your car to look like it had been brought up from the garage deck of the Andrea Doria. Granted that pictures can make look things look better than they really are, I still don't see all that much to worry about. It depends on your plans for the car.

Most Motor Vehicle Inspectors here in the states will flunk cars if they perceive any danger at all. I can't imagine yours being any different. The fact that it passed shows me that you've got a reasonably solid car that can be taken to whatever level you wish without the possibility of it collapsing in on it's self AND costing the earth to do it.

Xavier,

I guess Photobucket doesn't like us folks who aren't members.

You can put the photos right in your post very easily by using the "Attach File" feature or just posting the links to the pics.

Just a thought. I hope you don't have to go all the way to Italy to get the body work done! But I'm sure that considering how most Italian cars used to rust out here in Minnesota, they've got lots of practice:

Fix
It
Again
Tony

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Good. Then by all means drive it.

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Decent Clippers can be had for under $10,000. One like yours that runs and drives reliably, probably about $5000-$8000, but of course depending on how much someone is willing to accept and someone else is willing to pay.

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Depending on what the man intended to do (sounds like a complete body-off 100 point restoration) it would be acceptable to SOME PEOPLE who want concourse quality, hang the price, and don't want to have to do anything but get out their checkbook and hang around the garage.


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I wouldn't, good drivers are hard to come by. A lot of people seem to think that cosmetics come first, and hang the mechanicals together with bailing wire.

Generally, I look at a good price guide for a ballpark figure, try to buy the car for a little less than that as long as it's a driver, and try to make every purchase to restore it make economic sense, looking at the next higher level in the price guide. If I can get to that level while spending little more than the added value, I've got a good deal. Think of it as an investment, your goal is to at least break even or maybe make a little while you still have use of the car most of the time. Get shop work done in bad weather months, when you wouldn't want to drive it anyway.

That is, unless you expect the car to be a lifelong project without regard to the eventual amount you'll have "into" it.

Personally, I start with creature comforts and drivability. As long as parts aren't falling off the body. That means making sure all the accessories work, the windows are all good, the brakes are excellent, etc. Even if it isn't perfect cosmetically, a reliable driver is more fun to own, and easier to sell.

If you're into looking cool, a cheap "interim" paint job protects from further weathering and will make the car more attractive. No one gets down to look at the rust unless it's falling off underneath, or they want to look like experts-- or they're thinking of buying.

Do things to enhance YOUR enjoyment and safety, and think about the other stuff as projects to do a little at a time, during which you can hope that the car is appreciating in value whether you lift a finger or not!

I don't like to do this because I always ruffle somebodys feathers. I am going to assume(correct me if I am wrong), but those picture are of the car that you showed the body shop and he quoted you those *$^%^&^*)*&%^%$ INSANE prices.

Now for the controversy.

JW I have to disagree with you. A quote like that for that little work is a definite absolute "I don't want to do the work but if your STUPID enough to pay the price I will lower myself to do it". I have had enough estimates on cars to be able to tell honest estimates from the "I only do it the right way" ones. Having taken BUS.101 all the way to BUS.XXX, The right way is the way the customer wants it. I refer you to the project blog threads. Look up the 1956 Clipper hot rod posts. The local body shop started out the same way, until I showed him the error of his ways. He did the job the way I wanted. His way was a body off resto for 15K. My way was leave the body on and paint what you can. Price $5200. When the body shop owner/workers get hungry enough, they will do the job for a price that is much more near the price you can afford. If he does not, then there are other body shops around that will. If he is worried about his reputation, tell him you won't tell anybody he did the work. If it comes to that, he is worried that he won't be able to do a good enough job.

AL: Yes, Bus. 101. Also taught in that class was that the customer may not always be right, but he or she is always the customer. Glad your situation worked out for you.

(o{}o)

The mechanic you talked to is a thief in coveralls. I am not familiar with the cost of vehicle repairs or paint and body work in Europe but the suggestion that it would entail a fraction of those hours or that much money is absurd. We are currently doing restoration- nut and bolt/ frame off- of a 55 Caribbean and painting and general renovation of a 55 400 series. My friend is doing the body and paint work and I am consigned to mechanical and scud work- finding parts and cleaning and polishing .
My friend is a perfectionist and we have been forced to replace both quarters,one door and the entire front end sheet metal . There is a large amount of work involved but suggesting it will take that many hours is a joke.
The car that you own is not a high dollar item even if completely restored but if it is mechanically sound and you enjoy the car, why consider this proposal.
All good body and paint shops are charging more money these days due to the higher price for materials and the need to deal with environmental regulations that require extra expense.
Why not check around to see if you can locate a good technical school that teaches body and paint work to see if you can get an impartial evaluation of what is actually needed. Some here will actually do the work to afford the students the opportunity to deal with vehicles that are out of the ordinary. There may be training facilities that specialize in classic restorations.
At the very,least - get another estimate or three before abandoning your car.
Good luck.
RJR