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Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#1
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64avanti
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Looks like I did it again and found another project that will get involved.
Removing the spring clips that retain the outer bushings has me wondering if they will ever go back on.
And I have discovered that the inner bushings seem to be retained in the 2 part brackets by spot welds?? Certainly not going to drill them out, are these brackets really spot welded together? Who has been there.

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Posted on: 2016/9/12 19:13
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#2
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R H
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Kev has.

Discovered some new words to in the process.

What i think would be the solution. Pour them in place with flexane.

Posted on: 2016/9/12 19:21
Riki
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#3
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HH56
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Kev put on completely modern supports and IIRC, had to make spacer blocks to drop the modern bracket down to get the Packard distance.

Factory appears to have sold the bar, bearings (those particular bushings) and supports as a unit. Others have commented they were spot welded together early on at the 51 intro but later ones could be separated.. The 51-4 parts book lists the inner and outer portions as separate pieces -- maybe for service or maybe a later version. It appears they were spot welded again on 55-6s with no separate pieces listed.

I don't think there would be a downside to drilling out the welds, changing the bushing and then using a C clamp or bolts thru the frame holes to force the pieces back together. Once the bushing is compressed and the drilled out holes line up, you could bolt thru them with 1/4 or 5/16 grade 8 bolts. The main strain is going to be up and down which the frame bolts would take care of. If in fact the later ones were not welded, I would think the spot welds were not that necessary and bolts should do equally well.

You can split the new bushing to go over the rod but I don't see how the new bushings can be installed in the bracket without taking it apart.

Posted on: 2016/9/12 19:46
Howard
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#4
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Ross
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And the reason you don't want to drill them out is.....? With a good drill bit you will be done in 15 minutes, have them assembled and on the car before the hour is up. Dish liquid is a big help in sliding the bushings along, and a hammer. There is no particular need to weld the brackets back together, just use slightly longer bolts to pull them up to the frame. I think the welded them at the factory for ease of assy on the line.

On the outer ends, I have better luck with hooking the clip onto the bottom of the arm, then using a C-clamp to compress the bushing and clip toward the arm. When the clip is touching the top edge of the arm, I use a thin screwdriver to help the prongs up over the edge. Another turn of of the C-clamp and the prongs will drop into their slots.

Posted on: 2016/9/12 21:05
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#5
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Cli55er
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Been there done that. See my 55 blog early in its life and you will find what I did. Short of it.... Drill spot welds....pry open....replace bushings... Clamp back together using C clamps.... Weld edges in a couple of spots. Bolt back on frame.

Posted on: 2016/9/12 21:27
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#6
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BigKev
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My brackets were all bent and twisted from someone using those as a towing hook location.

As documented in my blog, I used a modern bracket and bushing, with a spacer made from a block of aluminum. Once everything was painted black, you don't even see it under the car. Provides a very stout mounting.

Posted on: 2016/9/13 10:37
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#7
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64avanti
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This is why I had ruled out drilling. These are serious and deep welds, guess I only need to drill 1/2 though. Sigh.

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Posted on: 2016/9/14 19:32
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Re: Sway bar bushing taffy pull
#8
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Cli55er
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I drilled all the way through. Drill bit was the same size as the weld I think. 3/8 or 1/2". Can't remember. If you don't want to weld back when you are done you can pass a bolt through the holes to hold it together if the spot welds line up well enough. I opted for welding little spots on the sides where the two halves meet back together. Can be ground off in the future.

Posted on: 2016/9/14 22:29
1937 Packard 138-CD Deluxe Touring Limousine
Maroon/Black 1090-1021
[url=https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/registry/View.php?ID=232]1955 Packard
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