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No idea on the Ultrasonic cleaning but if you use a replacement 3 terminal switch such as the VW 3 terminal, many have reported they do not seem to last long.

The accepted 3 terminal replacement that gets good reviews is the commonly available and relatively inexpensive 2 terminal switch as used on conventional suspension cars along with a relay to provide the switching for the TL. The other switch getting good reviews is a mechanical switch mounted on a bracket to the steering column inside the car and operated by the brake pedal arm.

The relay and two terminal is easy to do and Dwight Heinmuller has kits for the mechanical option or you can build your own there too.

Here is a diagram showing one way to make an easy to build relay replacement and there are other versions with slightly different wiring. Also, a mechanical switch drawing for 56 models with the wide pedal arm to the left of the steering column. 55 models with the narrow arm on the right need a different bracket.

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Personally I don’t like to add complications to an already simple good design so maybe those buying the VW switch have been getting cheapies. Even so, I would prefer having to replace it once in a while than to have all the extra wires, switches and relays!

The site told me the first time in red that I had exceeded my time even though I had been online for only a couple minutes so when I posted again, the message was there twice! This is the second one overwritten.

Just reconnoitering the site and clicked on Packard Paint Cross Reference Index.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/paintxref/index.php
Having a 56’ I noted my paint color Corsican Black, paint scheme V with no modern manufacturing or codes. I thought no big deal, just drop down a lower year to see what modern color is for those years black. I went down the list to 1929 and failed to note another black. Did come across moonstone. Curious as to what color that is. The internet listed several variances for moonstone. Is 1956 the first-year black was available on a Packard? Also, did not see it listed for a 57’ or 58’.

Black was available in most if not all years but was often not shown as a color chip on the charts. Where it is listed it is usually just a line mention of scheme or paint code X and description Black. Ditzler charts have a mfg code DAL-9100 along with the name Black in among the colors chips while other brand charts do not mention Black at all or hide a mention as a footnote or placed in with printing describing something else.

Here is a listing from a 54 Ditzler chart.

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To confirm what HH56 noted, black was a common color scheme for Packards and was probably offered every year they were built. It was a very popular color, especially prior to WWII. I've seen a number of solid black Packards and even had a couple, like my 1951 200 Club Sedan which I owned in the early 1990's. See picture below. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the ID plate, but as I recall, it indicated "X" for color scheme, which meant Black on the color charts.

I was going to restore this car, but the poor thing was almost rusted in half. I sold it to a collector in Pennsylvania and he did restore it. It came out great, but he decided to paint it metallic grey as he really didn't like black. Go figure.

Note that in this photo, the paint on the car is factory original. It had come from the estate of the original owner and had never had any restoration work done to it. But after a number of years of outdoor storage, it had deteriorated to the point where a full restoration was the only option if the car was to be saved.

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Going back to the brake light switch. After hearing the issues with the pressure switches and availability I just went with the mechanical switch route that bolts to the column on the inside of the car. Simple enough modification to do and so far both cars (patrician and caribbean) have been working fine with no issues

Just an update:
I have disassembled, ultrasonic cleaned, and reassembled my backup carburetor after I had a short back and forth with Chicago Carburetor about the gaps in the base plate to bowl gasket. They assured me these were required. While trying to locate any vacuum leaks, I did discover one of my exhaust manifold gaskets was askew. The bolt missed the hole, and I missed the mistake. That has been fixed. New gaskets and new bolts. Did find a leak though. The metal tube going into the vacuum reservoir for the power brakes, easily slides up and down in the top of the tank in the driver’s fender. It is on the list of issues to address. I installed the 2nd carb yesterday and with the whole 40 minutes of daylight left after work, I started the car and allowed it to warm up. Connecting the vacuum gauge to a port before the one-way port for the brakes and blocking off the line for the brakes, I witness 20” of vacuum on choke, then after the choke was fully opened, it stayed close to 15-16”, only going to 20 with a slight rev of the throttle. Again, I adjusted the fuel mixtures screws ¼ of a turn at time, in and out with no real change in vacuum. I know its operator error; I just do not know what I am doing wrong. The only source of vacuum that is not blocked off or gauged is the vacuum advance to the distributor. I will continue to watch the you-tube videos, but they seem more for the 70’s 4 barrels. I also purchase a car cover. It came vacuum packed, and when I released the vacuum, it opened, its huge. Did not mentally connect how big the Packard is till I tried to carry a bag for it.

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Quote:

With my kit they included a paper with a bit of an explanation of why they are there.

Your gasket looks wrong see this video
which explains different gaskets on Rochester 4GC carb.
Mikes carb repair video on 4gc
Cinema ModeOff
Rochester 4GC 4 Jet Carburetor Throttle Body Gasket Leak

https://www.carburetor-parts.com is providing this free video about the Rochester 4GC carburetor. This video illustrates how to check the throttle body gasket for vacuum leaks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-PVTh5Sji4