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Yeah a 6V generator is a 6V generator pretty much. As long as the generator current rating is higher than that of the regulator, and the field wiring is the same, it doesn't matter much. Pulley size...

For field wiring, most generators power the field from the armature and ground it through the regulator. Some (apparently mostly Fords) get power from the field from the regulator and ground the other side internally.

Though if you have a 3rd brush generator those work a bit differently.

EDIT: Thanks again to Ross….I now understand that one brush is ground and a lot of rust on the end plate could be a big part of the issue. Got the pulley off with a puller and now also understand that the notch I was seeing is the notch for the key in the shaft. Now to do some good clean up and see if maybe that’s all it needs.

I’ve said it before, but it needs to be said again…I truly appreciate all the help from this network of people and the patience with those of us who are doing these things for the first time. I know many are likely scratching their heads and thinking “oh lord, what is this guy doing?” There is a one word answer to that….”Learning”?




Thanks…

Follow up questions…I decided to pull out the generator and take a look….

First question….the generator has two brushes that appear to be in fair condition. The springs operate well. Only one brush has a wire going to it. Is that right? I see no signs of any broken wires anywhere.












Second question….At this point, I decided I’d like to disassemble and clean things up and also see if I spot any obvious issues. The nut and washer came off the pulley fairly easily, but how does the pulley come off from here… There appears to be a retainer of some sort, but I don’t know how to remove it. Just has a single notch in it.

Others can better answer the pulley question but on a two brush generator, one brush will connect to wiring going to the field coils and A terminal while the other brush will connect to case metal for the ground. If you check carefully where the braided lead from the brush with no other wire connects it is most likely being grounded to the case end plate by the brush holder or where ever the braided lead terminates.

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Thanks, Howard. Ross also educated me on that, but the diagram helps. I did get everything apart and cleaned up well. I couldn’t see any broken wires or obvious problem with it. I got it put back together and re-installed and polarized. No change.

So, John Ulrich has a correct generator that is ready to go, so I’m getting that from him. Then, I may get the Chrysler generator to someone later to possibly re-build.

If you're on Facebook there are many private groups for Chrysler, Imperial and other Chrysler makes and I'm sure posting the generator there would get it a good home. I had thought of that with mine but, as the label is virtually unreadable and I have no reference material to know what it fits, I'll put it off until I can do the research.

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I started working on Packards as a 16 year old in the mid-'60s but prior to that, since I was 14, I had a 1937 Chevrolet. Obviously no Internet so for me, the main difficulty was just in getting needed parts. Fortunately I am mechanically astute (or at least I used to be!) so have little trouble figuring things out but so glad this site exists for when I do need help. Posting questions in my Henney-Packard blog often get little response so when that happens I post separately but most the time the answers I do get are incredible!

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Was that an unintentional pun?

If your Chrysler generator is the late 40s early 50s style with the end cap and keyed armature shaft that can mount and drive a power steering pump a couple of Packard owners having cars that can only accommodate a single fan belt have used them to add power steering to their cars.

Okay, I played with the generator a bit more. I removed the belt and then jumpered the battery to the armature and it is motoring. So, I rechecked. It does appear to be charging. When I tested after cleaning, I didn’t have a fast enough idle. In the garage, it appreared to be working and charging at about 7v when revved and the ammeter showed charging as expected.

I then took it for a drive. The ammeter started jumping all around. Quite erratically. To the point where the needled would bounce positive (charging) and then hard negative and the needle would then stick. Tap on the meter an then it bounces erratically again.

Some of the issue is likely the meter, but I don’t think it jumping around like it was is all due to the meter. As I finished the drive, the meter was back to just sitting just below zero.

I’ll look into things a bit more tomorrow but would love to hear any ideas.

Hook up a volt meter that you can see what driving. See if it's putting out over 7 volts while driving.

On my car right after starting it and it high idle with the choke on ill see the Amp meter jump to around 30 amps for a few moments then slowly come down to just right of zero. Now I have an alternator, but that is what happens for me on the Amp gauge.

I'm sure the initial 30 Amp jump is the alternator turning on and possible high charging for a new moments to recover what was lost on the battery from running the starter.

Sounds like you have an intermittent on the backside terminals of the gauge, or its connection back to the generator/regulator. Go around all the generator and regulator contacts first, wiggle them by hand...look for degraded fiber insulator washers where they appear...see if you find the culprit...then do the same in an upside down contorted position under the dash for the gauge connections and any wires that emanate from the gauge...but on their "other end" for the same conditions.

The hard high ammeter transient reading right after starting is as you surmise...a hard current draw sourced from the generator as the battery does a quick trim up until the regulator kicks in and it regulates in a "bang/bang" lower current on/off pseudo-trickle charge to finish replenishing the battery.

I’ll post more info on the generator/regulator/ammeter a little later. For now, I thought I’d give everyone fair warning. My 138CD does NOT fit at Sonic. The front end is just too long! You will have to open the door to reach the call button!