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I've been holding my runningboard rubber since 2004. Steele didn't make the 40 160 version in 1986 when I bought most of my rubber. Two years ago I studied runningboards at the local car show trying to find someone with new ones. I found Bryan Parker who lives near me. I talked to him today. He made a few attempts before settling on a method that worked. I'm going to research getting the rubber removed at a local rubber fabrication company because that may be the worst of the job, then have the metal surfaced at the paint shop, Canyon Auto Repair and Collision. The metal surface has to be absolutely smooth and planed. Then Bryan will put them on. He uses 3M formica contact cement avail at Home Depot.
Joe

Interesting info & pics. I am in the process of having my 1940 Super 8 engine rebuilt. All looked really clean & not worn. The water distribution tube came out easily and in one piece. Looks good with just a bit of surface rust. My engine builder told me that he was going to paint it after cleaning. I've never heard of that. Any opinions?

Thanks

Sorry, paint the water distribution tube.

If it's an original or proper replacement it will be brass. Resist the temptation to paint it - nothing positive to be gained and the downside would be loosening of the paint which will circulate around the cooling system and ultimately perhaps lodge in the radiator tubes.

If it's a replacement that's steel as I've seen on rare occasions, unless I could find some appropriate coating which would be guaranteed to resist peeling or softening and be compatible with hot ethylene glycol, I'd still leave it unpainted.

On the topic of oil filters, I will also share for those who were not aware, the early oil filter assembly is specific to engines equipped with hydraulic tappets; identifiable by the small HT stamped in the brim of the oil filter lid. The oil filter suited for hydraulic tappet engines has a lower by-pass pop-off pressure. I am fascinated by all these little details.

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Spent the entire day cleaning the deck of the engine block. I never cease to be amazed by how much time it takes to do the dirty work. Scraped, and wire wheeled the deck, chased the nuts, and ran a thread die over the studs. Had a stud that needed to be re-installed also. While not exciting, or difficult, it was necessary time spent.

I think the last really dirty and time consuming job will be preparing the intake/exhaust manifold for paint and re-installation.

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Looks beautiful to the knowing eye, Jim. Time, time, time. BTW I sent my manifold to FinishLine for a ceramic coating.
http://www.finishlinecoatings.com/
The manifolds won't change color. There's some 50s or 60s TBird with a blue manifold. This is the only way to keep it blue. I had mine done in cast iron. Now 7 years later, not a speck of rust. I think not running the engine makes it more vulnerable. I have of course run it as I'm running it again. Til it warms up. But you might check it out. They even coat the inside of pistons with one type, and the outside with something else. Nice people, too. When I was taking a community college survey course on auto restoration, we had a field trip there among other places.

Having trouble mounting my wiper motor. If you open your air vent and put a work light on the screen, it will light under the dash well. Could you stick the camera under the dash to see how it's mounted. I had a replacement in there from a 48 Chevy pickup (???...hey, had to keep it on the road), but now I have a NOS SK-32 and I can't figure out how large the spacers have to be if there are spacers on the mounting screws. If you have time. I have a lot of stuff to do in the meantime. Just keep staring at the Duchess' hood in the middle of the room on the trunk.
Tomorrow is another day.
Joe

Looking under my dashboard, I've verified that there are supposed to be 3/4 inch spacers between the wiper and the mount. With everything installed, it's tough to get a clear "look" up there, let alone to get a camera in there. I'll give it a try, though, if you really need a photo. But there are definately spacers, at least 3/4 inch.

No, that's fine, Jim. West also mentioned "about 3/4 inch" and the old looking spacers I have are exactly 3/4 in. So I will get some new shorter screws today (the incorrect motor was set back 1-1/4 inches) and install it. No pic necessary. Thanks for looking.

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Joe, there is a little confusion here. That was West responding to your question in this thread. Sounds like you fellows have it figured out, though. If you need me to try to take a look under my dash, I can give it a try, but also have a radio, heater, and glove box all in the way.