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It's been a long time since I've flooded an engine so bad that it refuses to start even after sitting overnight. It's a long time since I've flooded an engine at all!

But, through a Series of Unfortunate Events (see my "Successful Packard Hunt" thread) the 327 w 2-barrel in my '54 Clipper is now seriously flooded.

The things things I've tried so far:

1. Hold pedal to floor (duh). It fires fairly enthusiastically but will not keep running.

2. Hold gas pedal part way open while cranking. (it fires less than when holding it to floor.

3. Check automatic choke adjustment (it's all the way on "lean"--maybe flooding has been a problem in the past?).

4. Prop open the choke valve and crank with foot off gas (same result as above).

5. Scratch head. (no result)

6. Throw wrench. (negative result)

7. Wait some more and post my troubles here and hope. (probability of productive result)


Re #7:

There is some seepage around the base of the carb. Could the float be out of adjustment or stuck?

Is ether worthwhile to try and safe? I've used it, but hate to risk stressing the engine.

This is one I've never tried, but: How about turning the idle mixture control all the way to lean? Prevent any more gas going in as it cranks, and then back it out 1 1/2 turns like the manual says. Or is having it set too lean the reason that the car won't keep idling after it fires?

Y'know, when all else fails, there's always the kitchen match to the spark plug hole technique!

This might be a helpful topic to others, and it's fortunate that it happened when it's 35 degrees out instead of -35!

Others will have more answers or suggestions but if there is seepage I'd suspect a float issue for one. Been lots of reports about dirt or chunks of rust or something else lodging under the needle so it couldn't seal.

Depending on type of carb components or how long it was unused or unfilled before you got it and started driving, there have been reports of certain float needles with rubber tips swelling or starting to have other issues when introduced to todays gas.

Try and eliminate saturated spark plugs........pull them, dry and clean them, re-install them. Check spark intensity (dwell and coil output)......hope this helps.

If an engine is flooded real bad the plugs can get a black glaze that conducts electricity. Once they get like that the engine may turn over and chug but never start.

The only cure I have found is to sandblast the plugs or replace them. The glaze seems immune to any solvent or wire brush.

I have a small hand held sand blaster called a spot blaster, it looks like a Shutz gun or paint gun. It is just the ticket for sandblasting spark plugs. It cost $12 at a flea market about 20 years ago.

The other thing that happens is the gas washes the oil off the rings and you have no compression.

The thing to do is take the plugs out and sandblast them. Examine them carefully under a strong light and pick out any bits of sand with a needle. Regap the plugs.

Twirl the engine over with the plugs out to clear the cylinders of gas. Squirt a little oil in there to oil the rings. Twirl it over again.

Put the plugs back in and start the engine. Rev it up to a fast idle, 1000 - 1500 RPM until it clears its throat and runs smooth. Let it run for 10 minutes or so before you shut it off.

If it is real bad and the oil is full of gas you may want to change the oil.

The two plugs I pulled did look black, but more like soot than a glaze. The coil is giving good spark (witnessed that by pulling a plug wire with it running. Also, the car always started right up before the flooding.

I don't think it's fouled the oil or washed off the rings, but it wouldn't hurt to pull all the plugs. I was just thinking of things short of that.

Right now it's sitting with the choke valve propped open to give things a chance to evaporate slowly. Most of the gas in it is "clear" non-oxygenated. The sight glass on the sediment bowl shows clean gas. The float might be set too high, but before I get all jiggy with settings I want to get it started.

I've got this trick little old 10 amp battery charger with a 6V setting. It gives a nice slow charge and you don't have to worry about over-charging so I've left it chugging away since yesterday evening and will leave it on until tomorrow.

Thanks for the tips. Hope this thread will help out others as we get into colder weather starting.

I remember our V8 Packards with Rochester 4-barrels being prone to flooding if you weren't careful. Just about anything with a carburetor can be touchy, but I find it kind of a point of honor knowing how to start them right. But it's been years and years.

More news tomorrow unless it snows too much-- 3-5 inches predicted-- and I get worn out dealing with that. Then I'll just disconnect the charger and wait out the much colder weather that will follow the snow. (Low of 5 above predicted for Monday). O Joy to the World, eh?

Make sure the carb bowl vent is opening.

Thanks for the tip V8. Now how do I do that? Carb cleaner? The shop manual only shows an adjustment for the vent on the 4 barrel "WCFB" carb (, not the "WGD" carb, which is the 2 barrel. There is the usual cap that side-bowl carbs have on both, which I always assumed was for venting while the fuel pump fills the bow (that's what I use it for on my twin carter side-drafts on the boat--once gas gets up there, you know the bowl is full and ready for starting).

Is there a vent with specs for gap on the 2-barrel "WGD" carb? The manual only mentions that "The air bleed... are permanently located in the air horn.

Info on the carbs in the manual is quite limited. There is a "trouble-shooting" section only for the 4-barrel.

Never liked diddling with carbs! Let 'em alone, is my usual motto.

BTW, here is 3-5" from yesterday...

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Guy, you may not have a carburetor problem. I would check the ignition system first. I had a starting problem with my 55 Clipper, and the problem turned out to be a broken insulator in the distributor. Just a suggestion...

(o{}o)

JW,

Thanks. The spark seems OK though. Did the simple plug wire to ground test. Strong, long spark. That doesn't rule out other cylinders, but it does rule out a ground-out prior to the plug or a weak coil.

Still wonder where that con-sarned carb vent is. Although it'll take a couple days meltin' to really get me motivated to slog through there (see pics) Supposed to warm up in next few days.

http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/pages/gallery/Carter/CarterWGD-56Hudson.jpg

Look at the pic from the above link. See the brass tube that is bolony sliced at the very top of the air horn just above the choke blade. That should be the vent tube for the bowl. If it is plugged up with warsper or dirt dobber nests or other debris then the bowl will not vent and the fuel will pressureize and cause leakage that appears near bottom of carb. Especialy at the throttle blade shaft.

Put a tube over the vent and blow on it with lung power (NOT COMPRESSED AIR!!!!!) If it is plugged up then u won;t be able to blow thru it.

Disclaimer: I am not familiar with this particular carb. My description above is what is usual, normal and customarily found in MOST carbs and what a reasonable and sober minded person with just average carb rebuilding experience would determine to be the case when in doubt due to lack of more detailed avialable information.