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I bought a motor ( 53 327 ) it was in a field for cheap. I finally got it apart , but it has a hole the size of silver doller with a bore length crack in cylinder number 1.
is it junk>>?/ or has anybody sleeved a postwar 327/288

you guys always know what to do. what i was really wanting is a ( K4XXX ) 52 327 to rebuild and put in my 52 junior ( original according to the glove compartment slip. it has a running 51,288 ( J2XXX ) BUT IT IS GETTING TIRED and eventually would like to replace it.

any thoughts

I've successfully had a cylinder sleeved in a 54 359 engine but it only had a crack -- nothing with a hole. If mine I don't think I'd trust it but the engine guys may have better suggestions.

Quote:
"bore length crack in cylinder number "

NOTE that is says BORE LENGTH. Which i interpret to mean is cracked to the very lowest EDGE of the bore. Need to determine if, or more specifically how far, the crack extends across the bottom surface of the block. e.g. between the 1st and 2nd cylinder web. SLeeve mite not help for that continuation of the crack. Then engine coolant will leak thru the crack.

There are pinch bolting tricks. I'm trying one rite now. Doesn;t work. After sleeving, mite have to use somekind of miracle epoxy to scab over the contimuation of the crack. I'm trying the epoxy trick now (just last nite) after the pinch bolt trick that didn't work. To top that off i have about $50 bucks in epoxy alone. Probably about 10 hours worth of diligent labour too. ope the epoxy doesn;t flake off. Welding won't work in some situations or will require machining costs so high so as to make one look for another block or do an engine swap.

Quite frankly, repairing a cracked block is little more than just butcher work out of desperation. But who knows, i mite get lucky this time. Maybe u will on yours.

THE CRACK from the hole i mentioned goes to the bottom of the cylinder. does not look like it goes in to the block itself. i will take it in and ask the Machinist that i was going to have rebuild it. It was to be hot tanked and magnafluxed. it has five broken head bolts and three intake bolts that have to be removed. I will ask if it is worth it. I was just asking you guys if anybody has done this to a Packard. i read the earlier posts from the search bar top right. I really like this website. saved me a couple times.
thanks you guys

After sleeving be sure to leak test the block before any more assembly. Just pour some water in it and let it set for a week. I'm currently pressure testing mine with only head and water pump assembled to block and 3 psi air pressure.

Please don't do it, it will be like burning money in the middle of the driveway to keep your hands warm. All the 51-54 288 and 327 5 main blocks are the same and are readily available. For not too much money you can probably get a decent-ish 327 as a basis for a rebuild, or just use the crank and rods out of your field engine in your 288 block. Also, the 327 intake has slightly larger runners, so use that.

In Corvette world the right number is worth something, but in Contour Packard world it is unimportant except maybe on a 'Bean. If you enjoy having the right numbers then lovingly grind off the old numbers and restamp. Back in the day a block was just as much a service item as a tie rod end.

I agree with Ross, find another block. Normal practice with cracks whether engine blocks or anything else is to drill a hole at each end to spread the stress over a larger area and decrease the likelihood of the crack continuing to propagate before effecting repairs, but if your crack is the full length of the bore, I'd relegate that block to the scrap heap.

ok, That settles that. scrap heap it is. Lol... some how that made me smile this morning.
well at least i have a crank and two dimple rods. I thought the two dimple rods where out of nine journal cranks ? o well
thanks again you guys.

You can always use as a wine rack, or interesting coffee table.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=11208&forum=4&post_id=116732#forumpost116732

I think a whisky aging rack might serve it's heritige.

i have been trying to find the page that tells me specs on motor.Are you trying to tell me the only diffrence between my 288 and this 327 besides the stampings is the crank and rods??? this crank needs trued and turned. and it says 327 on it. the rods have two dimples ....
if i blank out the J2XXX and Stamp K4XXXX... i will satified ...

I SAY AGAIN: are the blocks the same.... mechanically. ??