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I'm sure it's been asked here, but I have not been able to find it. What is the best way to pull the impeller of the pump shaft so I can replace the seal. Some one before me has had this apart and did not put the bearing back in the right spot and install a retainer. The groove in the bearing is behind the one in the housing and the impeller has rubbed the back plate a bit. Therefore, I believe that front of the impeller is not close enough to the housing to get good flow. They also put silicone in the back of the impeller filling up the groove and the two holes that go through the impeller to the back of the seal. That can't be correct!? Thank you in advance for the assistance.

You might check out the radiatorhttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/servicemanual5154/Radiator_XIV.pdf section of the 51-4 service manual. There are some photos showing the rebuilding of a pump. Since they are similar if not the same pumps, even though not the best quality photos they might give you some indication of the procedures.

Thanks Howard. That is some help. I figured it was something like that. I think that I'll also put some heat around the hub of the impeller to help it release from the shaft.

Took the pump apart. The seal had some chips in it, and the housing is quite worn. For now it's a new pump. Cruises are starting and I want to go!

Hi,

I started (or attempted to start) my water pump rebuild. I can't pull the lock pin from the slot. I have soaked it and used heat. (propane torch) How did you get yours removed?

My next move was to puchase one of those visegrip/puller tools from Eastwood. I have been using a hammer on a pair of visegrips. ...not muh force there. It's only a matter of time til that pin breaks and I'm stuck with a paper weight.

Thanks,

Mark

Does anyone know of a source for just the seal for 48-50 pumps? I purchased a rebuilt and a nos pump that both leaked when installed. Thanks Packardtaximan

I'm not surprised that an NOS pump failed, the seal has probably been sitting and drying out for 60+ years. Much as I like to rebuild most components, for water pumps you're really better off getting your rebuilt by one of the quality rebuilders (Gould, Terrill Machine) or just buying a brand new one from Kanters. And whomever you bought the rebuilt one from that leaked should make good on the purchase.

D-train. That was part of the problem with my pump. The lock ring was not installed when whom ever had it apart before me. They installed the shaft too far which in turn placed the impeller too far away from the housing which confirmed my low flow in the rad. As far as getting the retainer out, remember that it is likely just a wire that goes around the bearing fitting in the groove in the bearing and the housing when aligned. Quite possible that it's rusted in place. Try penetrating oils, tapping gently around the housing at the retainer., Possibly some gentle heat, but not enough to burn off the penetrating oil. The idea is to warm the housing enough to expand it to help the oil get in the groove. Failing that, I used the following to remove a piston that was rusted in the barrel of a 16 HP small engine. It actually worked, to my surprise. Go and get some of the original recipe name brand cola. Enough to soak the whole pump in it. It may get in there and loosen the retainer. Again, maybe removing it a couple of times to tap at the retainer. These are just some suggestions. Hope one of them work for you.

Packardtaximan - Take the seal to an industrial pump rebuilder. They might be able to supply. Also, maybe someone who services small centrifugal pumps. Like well pumps or hydroponic service.

packardtaximan - I sent you a PM .