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motor assembly, but ,,,can't see why not others things, except that i think it goes into solution with the oil, but can't see why not diagram has brakes,

kaman bearing is where i get it, in san diego, some auto stores carry it, the older ones that have survived

that's the 54 straight 8 packard southwest was giving away, its my ballast for now,

possible coffee table...latter

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Thanks for all the info. I didn't find Lubriplate by brand in my regular travels locally. Am sure it is around but instead of chasing all over, did find the StaLube product O_D recommended -- or at least Napa says SL3301 is the same as 3303 except in a small tube instead of a big can. Another poster also recommended the moly type grease. Can't be any worse than the stuff I used on the trunk latch assy so I'll give it a go.

Howard, I think you'll be very pleased with the StaLube product, though expensive it's an outstanding specialty lubricant and I suspect you'll find other applications for it. Specifically consider it for brake parts like backing plate tabs, shoe ends, brake cams and cables, etc. I've also used it to pack the 55/56 TL gearboxes as it seems to closely resemble the OEM grease.

GM dealer should have the lubriplate in stock.

I've used the SL3303 Brake Caliper Grease and it is a very effective lubricant that won't damage rubber brake parts.

The problem with using it as a general purpose grease is that the molybdenum disulfide and graphite additives are black. So it is very messy. If used on hinges, latches, and inside doors it will get on clothing and upholstery.

I only use molybdenum disulfide greases when specified because they are so dirty.

However, I like the Permatex brake grease products better.

from a chemistry standpoint unless you really know what you're doing, avoid mixing other oils, greases, etc. with greases. Not only will the viscosity profile change, the stability and additives will more likely be adversely affected than enhanced.
Most all organic materials will degrade to some extent with exposure over time, so don't expect "greases" to live for ever; clean and reapply.
Silicones (oils) are generally more "inert" but are hydrophobic and are the "same" chemically just vary in viscosity by molecular weight. So they're not used much in services where moisture is a problem, but can preferentially coat some metals and protect against rust to a degree.
Teflon is not affected much below 500F but needs special solvents to make it sprayable and useable as a lube. It, however, thermally degrades into "nasties". Not recommended at motor temperatures.
Molybdenum disulfide and graphite are non-organics but are formulated as insoluble particulates and as such are subject to migration.
Antiseize compounds are technically lubricants but for much different service (static) than typical bearing surface (dynamic) greases.
Remember they didn't have alot of the modern materials around and the technology in use maybe the best in it's day, but may not compare to todays. By the same test, some things stand the test of time. Only thing that changes about them is our perception.

Ok. What grease do u use fishin jim????