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We were making great progress removing the transmission and overdrive, until we hit one 9/16th hex bolt on the transmission support. the left-most, front most. It is directly above other stuff that blocks putting a socket and breaker bar on it. We can get an open wrench on it above by sliding it through the center opening and below, but no way to rotate it and no leverage.

I know we are missing something here. I can't believe it was engineered in s way that's so difficult.

All the other bolts are out.

If any one is familiar with this problem, help would be much appreciated.

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Is there enough room you could get a U joint socket on -- or maybe a crows foot?

The two young guys, Evan and Ryan, 19, helping me rigged up a Rube Goldberg contraption using a crescent wrench (longer handle, tightened on nut), an open wrench on the handle of the crescent, and a bunch of socket extensions, and got it to move.
They just whooped that they got it off! Thanks Howard. I will have to look into those tools now. Gee another tool. I'll send a picture when I update the project blog.
Mission accomplished!

Now we are to use two "pilot studs" in the lower bolt holes to slide the transmission back far enough to unhook a spring in the clutch.

What is a pilot stud? Does it have threads like a head stud?

You can make a pilot stud out of a bolt with just enough thread to bottom out in the hole and just enough shank to pilot along. Yet, just how much shank is enough depends on how much working room you need to reach that spring.

To make the pilot stud from the appropriate bolt:

1) cut the hex head off with a hacksaw

2) square up the cut end with a file

3) chamfer the end with a file

4) cut a screwdriver slot in that end with a hacksaw

Make sense?

If you have studs that thread in, that will work. Otherwise, just get bolts no more than 4 inches long and cut the head off. My 47 needed 1/2-13 threads and length was about 3 1/2". It can't be too long or you will not be able to insert or remove it because of an obstruction in trans case. You will also use them to reinstall the trans.

Important thing both removing and reinstalling is have the pilots support the weight while you guide the input shaft straight out and in. Any tilt of the trans while the input shaft is in the clutch plate hub can damage the clutch.

I use a crows foot on that nut.

You shoud be able to get the spring off from below with out pulling the trans back.

Pilot studs or just longer bolts [top only] are helpfull when reinstalling your trans.

Good Luck Greg

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That's why I like to use pilot studs in the upper holes, rather than the lower ones, if possible. Else, one upper and one lower hole, opposite from each other.

That way, gravity isn't fighting you nearly as much.

Opposite corners is a good idea. I don't remember which I used but IIRC, the side bracket mount pad area interferes with either and prevents using longer length pilots.