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My 41 will not stay in first gear when starting out. I have to hold the shifter down in order to move the car. The shifter barely moves down out of neutral into 1st gear, reverse seats nicely in gear. I have checked to see if the lever on the transmission would move any further into 1st gear with the linkage off but it would not. I am assuming that the transmission has internal issues. At this point I don't feel like external adjustments will correct this. Any ideas ? I find my 37 Packard transmission to be superior to the 41's

The prewar Handishift had lots of issues. There was also a loosening bolt and wear problem on the interlock block inside the transmission. If you haven't already checked the service index for a list of all the bulletins and service letter articles on correcting various problems it might be worthwhile.

One other thing might be the snubber. Chatter and jumping out of gear was an issue if the snubber was worn, disconnected, broken etc and engine was able to shift fore and aft in its mounts. I believe the original snubbers were fairly flimsy and were prone to bending or breaking. IIRC, Flackmaster has reprod a considerably beefed up version.

Does the shift lever move the same amount going into reverse as it does going to first. If so then linkage adj is probably OK. If there is a long movement for reverse and relatively short for first then I would look at adjustments again. The procedure for pinning the shift levers together and then adjusting the turnbuckles might help.

Thank you for your reply, the shifter moves further into reverse and very shallow in first. I' m not sure what a snubber is, not a transmission guy but just trying to make it operable, column shift reduces the reliability, hard to beat the floor shift, much less problems. I have reviewed the diagram for adjusting but am somewhat confused about the adjustments. I guess I will have to find someone else to look at this. I always do all of my own work so I am frustrated that I will probably have to get assistance with this.Thank you again for your reply.

The snubber is a rod with rubber bushings on each end. It is attached in a straight line between the frame and the transmission to put tension on the motor/trans and keep the fore and aft movement to a minimum. It first started on senior models and then was able to be retrofitted to juniors and I believe was finally on all.

Here is an illustration of the type used on some cars. The design changed a bit between models.

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I really appreciate your help, thank you for clearing this up. Will it hurt to hold the shifter in first gear when starting out until I can find the cure ? I don't plan on any long drives.

I don't think it will hurt anything in the short term. Maybe a bit of extra pressure on the forks etc but should be able to handle it for a little while.

Check the snubber but since you said the reverse has a long throw and first is short I would address the adjustment again as a first step. Sounds like the first gear engagement is right on the edge and perhaps even the torque twisting the motor side to side is able to pull against the linkage tied to the frame enough to pull it out.

Review the bulletins on sticking or locking in gear since several of them give adjustment instructions that are unique to those bodies. Basically, the overall process is to remove the turnbuckle ends from the levers, lock the shift levers together using the size pin they mention thru the holes so the levers move as one and then place and hold the shift lever in the neutral position (center of throw). With the shift lever stationary and held, adjust the turnbuckle ends so they will smoothly enter the holes in levers.

If everything in the trans is OK, that should result in an even movement for both gears plus a little extra margin. If you go thru the adjustment and the throw is still uneven then I would look at trans and detent block. Perhaps that has worn or something has broken and is preventing the first fork or lever from moving farther.

There are a couple of other things in the linkage such as bushings that are also worth checking as mentioned in the articles.

Am I correct that the turnbuckles will be adjusted looking down into the engine compartment from the top side.of the car ? Very much appreciate your help.

Depends on how accessible your car is as to easier from top or under in reaching them. Not sure which year or model this illustration is from but If your car has linkage similar to this then it appears there are two points which could cause an adjustment problem. The turnbuckles circled in red and then it appears there might be an adjustable clevis end circled in blue on the rods to transmission.

Important thing is after disconnecting the turnbuckles have the levers on side of trans firmly in neutral and the shift lever held at its midpoint neutral position when any adjustments are made. The shift lever may want to drop by gravity so it needs to be kept in position. After that position criteria is met then adjust turnbuckles in or out so the ends can enter the holes on shift levers easily.

I believe the clevis end adjustment is mostly to make sure the relay mechanism links and the overcenter spring assist on 2-3 is midpoint but there is a chance one could be misadjusted. You said you couldn't get any more range out of the trans lever so if the rod was connected you might check that the link hadn't bottomed out because a clevis end is misadjusted. If the rod was disconnected at trans then link is not a likely problem. I would concentrate on the turnbuckle end and leave the clevis alone unless the turnbuckle adjustment runs out before an end can enter a hole.

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to add to what howard has sent you. you need to place a 3/16 rod or drill in the holes in the arms on the shifting shaft on the steering column. then take the long rods off the trans arms- with the trans in neutral you adj. till the long rods fit back on the trans with on pressure. you stated that you could not move the 1st-R very much in the 1st direction, it should be equal. if that is true and the above is correct, u need to take the top off the trans and check the forks and inner lock. dell

Knowing the prior history of this car and it's constant problem with the shift linkage and the nature of the corrections attempted previously, were it mine I'd not look for a simple fix but check and renew as needed from A to Z. Having to hold it in 1st gear to prevent it from popping out of gear will, sooner or later, result in a broken gear tooth which in turn can lead to much more serious damage.