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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Ken_P
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File is definitely not available... will have to check it out, if it comes back.

Mild successes this evening.

When I did the checks outlined in the service manual a few days ago, I didn't have the pitman arm on when I checked for cross shaft backlash. Turns out that was a mistake! I had lots!

I also couldn't "feel" the high spot. Now I think I know why.

When I removed the cross shaft, there were a total of seven shims. Four thick (0.030") and three thin shims (0.010") (for a total of 0.150").

Following the major adjustment procedure, I removed one thin shim and checked for backlash. Still present. After iteratively removing shims, one thin shim (0.010") at a time, I still had backlash on the cross shaft, with 0.030" removed. (I reinstalled all three thin shims and removed one thick)

It was quitting time, but the backlash is getting much better. And with 0.030" of shims removed, I can definitely feel a high spot in the steering gear. I'm hopeful that I can remove one more thin shim, for a total of 0.040" removed, and be done. I'm expecting it to steer much better now!

Other tasks accomplished - box drained, cleaned out, column gear inspected (sat), new gasket made for cross shaft cover, column gear cover re-sealed.

I also installed a new cross shaft oil seal. In retrospect, I wish I would have waited until my backlash adjustment was done! :) Determined that a National 7412S seal cross-references. Picture for posterity, and I will update the parts cross-reference.

Attach file:



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Posted on: 2020/6/25 20:06
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Ken_P
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With 0.050" of shims removed and a fresh fill up of gear oil, she's on the road again. Much better road manners too!

Posted on: 2020/6/26 17:45
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Ken_P
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Put about 50 miles on today. Steering is much, much better, but the ride is still very harsh compared to my old 115c. I'll verify all the shocks are full, and may rebuild this fall.

Also fighting an overheating problem today, which is new. I think I will check the thermostat retainer, as it was a bit sketchy last year and nothing else has changed. I flushed everything last year, and it was runnning nice and cool.

Attach file:



jpeg  (532.72 KB)
2964_5f012c866e694.jpeg 2048X1536 px

Posted on: 2020/7/4 19:27
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Ken_P
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Well, it wasn't the easy fix. Thermostat looked fine, although surprisingly gunky considering all the work I did about a year ago to clean out the engine and radiator.

Did a quick test drive with the thermostat removed - no change, so that tells me the thermostat is functioning fine and I have a heat removal capacity issue - either a blockage, or the engine is making too much heat. The temp drop on the radiator seems to be a uniform 30 degrees, right to left. Block temps were 195 to 215 - so far too hot.

The only thing that has changed since I started having an overheating problem was replacing the manifolds. I'll check the heat riser again, and inspect the plugs. Replacing the intake manifold fixed my rich running, so I'm wondering if it is maybe a little lean now. I'll report back once I find the problem.

Posted on: 2020/7/7 9:53
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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kevinpackard
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Best of luck with the investigation. Love the car BTW.

-Kevin

Posted on: 2020/7/7 10:23
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Ozstatman
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Ken,

You could try Evaporust in your cooling system. No personal experience but over on the AACA Forums there are a number who swear by it, see this link.

Posted on: 2020/7/7 14:41
Mal
/o[]o\
====

Bowral, Southern Highlands of NSW, Australia
"Out of chaos comes order" - Nietzsche.

1938 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

1941 One-Twenty Club Coupe - SOLD

1948 Super Eight Limo, chassis RHD - SOLD

1950 Eight Touring Sedan - SOLD

What's this?
Put your Packard in the Packard Vehicle Registry!
Here's how!
Any questions - PM or email me at ozstatman@gmail.com
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Wesley Boyer
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Ken, I don't know how much affect this has but I do know if the flow is too great you will have less heat transfer. Has something to do with time and surface contact for heat to transfer from water to metal.
I had a guy at work had a Hyd Pump overheating and he said he could understand why, he had the max flow going though the system. I told him to check the cooling water coming out from the system and he said it was cold. I had him slow down the flow until he couldn't keep his hand on the pipe due to the heat. After that it work for the rest of the day until nightshift came in and change out the control which had gone bad in the first place.
Wes

Posted on: 2020/7/7 15:39
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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JWL
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Ken, check your ignition timing for retarded setting, and the distributor vacuum chamber for a leak.

Posted on: 2020/7/8 10:36
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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bkazmer
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higher water flow means that for the same amount of heat transferred, it is absorbed by more water and therefore the temperature is not as high.

If you take two hot rocks of equal mass and temperature, and drop one into a small pot of water and the other into a vat of water, which container of water gets hotter?

Posted on: 2020/7/8 13:24
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Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
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Ken_P
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Gents, thanks for all the thoughts.

I suspect I know what is wrong, but I'm just going to go through the entire tune-up procedure, to try and get everything perfect.

When I recently replaced the intake manifold to fix some exhaust leaks, it also inexplicably fixed my rich running problem - no smoke once warmed up. I think that my rich running was caused by an un-diagnosed vacuum leak, causing the carb to demand more fuel. Now that the excess fuel condition is gone, it is actually running a bit lean, and thus hot.

I've been busy, so haven't done much, but I did pull the plugs, confirmed lean in addition to hot. Did a compression test. I was very surprised by the results. Spec on my car is 118 psi. Last summer, I did a test with the carb off and got 130-132 psi on all cylinders. This time, with throttle plate and choke blocked open, I was at 116-119 psi on cylinders 1-6. Hooray! But, I was down 10 and 15 psi on #7 & 8 respectively.

I ran some marvel mystery oil in my last tank of fuel, and a little diesel in the previous tank, to clear carbon out of the combustion chambers. That appears to have worked. I'm hoping my lower compression on two cylinders is due to an issue with my recent valve adjustment and not burnt valves!

Next up - I'll finish changing the points out (saw some minor pitting). I was going to install a new condenser, but the existing one is a NOS Autolite with an integral distributor wire (not sure of the title, the one that goes from the points to the distributor body, eventually to the coil). The NOS one is in spec for capacitance, the new one (from NAPA) is not.

I also checked the spark plug wires for resistance, just for fun. All were good, less than 0.3 ohms, but I did find two slightly loose terminal ends.

I also have a new cap coming, and need to order a new rotor.

Once the ignition work is done, I'll do a cylinder leak down test, verify timing, and then tune the carb with a vacuum gauge.

I'll report back once I get some more done.

Posted on: 2020/7/13 6:28
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... &order=ASC&status=&mode=0
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