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Before opening it up I would still verify for sure that the timing chain or sprocket has changed by checking the timing with a light. As you crank it and the light flashes, If the light indicates the timing is only a degree or two off from the spec'd 8 degrees BTDC I would look somewhere else for the problem.

If the timing is off by a large number like say 10 or enough that it doesn't even indicate so the timing falls on the damper or flywheel scale then is when I would look to the valve timing as the problem.

Owner sez engine was rebuilt 2/7/14, I doubt that a chain that passed inspection 3 yrs ago would wear out to the point it would skip in 3 yrs unless very high mileage has accumulated since then.

In my opinion insufficient information has been presented to make an intelligent decision how to proceed with a repair.

....I doubt that a chain that passed inspection 3 yrs ago would wear out to the point it would skip....

I fully agree Fred; but also equally unlikely that all cylinders would drop to a compression of 25 psi or less on an engine rebuilt 3 years ago; I may have jumped the gun with my assumption.

It's such a simple thing to check the valve timing, it would be nice to have that information before contemplating any disassembly.

I agree with Fred K. and HH56, Have the things we have
already mentioned been rechecked? It does not seem likely
that an engine that had some cylinders with that low a comp number would idle that smoothly, also, has the timing been
rechecked with a timing light??
Since it seems time for a "hail mary" what is the point gap?
If the point gap is very wide, the dwell time would
be too short, not allowing the coil time to "saturate" this
would allow a nice fat hot spark as it is cranked over but
not as the rpm increases.
In short, has been said we really need some specific
numbers.
compression carefully run, as has been said above, throttle
and choke wide open and at least 3 compression strokes.and numbers for each cyl.

Spark, distributer carefully checked (preferably with the
dist off the car, checking not only point gap but play in bushings and cent. advance.

Fuel, not only does the carb get fuel at cranking but is the
"power section plugged, is the float set properly?
Although these would take time and therefore money to check,
it would hardly compare to tearing into the"bottom end".

This step-by-step check and set up might help:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/175.cfm

It starts with a mistake in replacing the distributor in an engine that was running previously. No one has said that the distributor was pulled in order to fix the starter, but if it was, it might account for the problem now.

"What might seem like a trivial task to most hobbyists, removing and replacing (or reinstalling) a distributor can easily degenerate into a time-consuming, frustrating job that can result in great difficulty in getting an engine running properly.

Although most "shade tree mechanics" know the function of a distributor, many forget that its operation must be perfectly phased with that of the camshaft. A person might go to great lengths to mark the position of the distributor on the engine block and then completely overlook the position of the rotor shaft, or vice-versa. This mistake is so easy to do that even "seasoned" professionals constantly make it, ending up with an engine that won't start or is so far advanced or retarded in timing that it barely runs."

Good Morning all...I'm wondering if the vacuum guage that is being used is not correct. I can't imagine that all of the cylinders would drop to the same amount of low vacuum. Ernie

Owner has not given us compression readings on all 8 cylinders, all he posted is

" some cyl had low 25 - 30 psi or none." from which you can deduce nothing. I don't understand posters who have a problem and an army of fellow members offering help and then fail to help us help them???? I also don't understand how airplanes don't fall out of the sky.

I don't recall seeing any information that points to either a new timing chain or the chain being inspected during the rebuild process. Looking through all of the posts it would seem it might be best to start off with some solid, reliable facts in order to diagnose the issue.

I think if all is well with the chain and timing and you put #1 piston at the top, the following should occur:

1) The rotor should point at the distributor post for either cylinder 1 or 8 (If the rotor points to number 1 cylinder, then both valves should be closed otherwise).

2) The timing marks should be close to aligning with each other within 6-8 degrees

If the above doesn't happen then the problem could lie with the timing chain or an issue with the distributor being out of sync with possibly a broken tooth or shaft. Since it is easier to pull the distributor and check I'd look at it first. Next would be to check the timing chain.

On the matter of the compression readings being at zero, I would examine the gauge and the rubber on the gauge and even try a different gauge. When performing a compression in addition to what has been mentioned above (open throttle and providing readings for all cylinders) I would perform the test with both dry & wet cylinders (wet = squirting a small amount of oil into each cylinder and re-running compression check)

"My initial thoughts are to remove the hood, radiator, water pump, and front piece."

I think that is pretty much to it. I don't know if you can remove the whole front end as one piece? And while you got it apart this would be a good time to pull the water distribution tubes and flush the block. And as I think, somebody else added install a new seal on the crank shaft.
Wes

If the engine was rebuilt about 3 years ago, it's a bit of overkill to remove the nose, water tube and flush it out. There's no indication of overheating. Easier to drop an aspirin in the radiator, a baby aspirin.