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I finally decided to bite the bullet and try repacking my water pump. I got it done and definitely learned some tricks along the way.

I started with the packing nut pretty well bottomed out.





This is where it ended up after adding four strands of 1/8 in graphite packing. The shaft was in good shape and I now have a lot of room to tighten if needed. I am very appreciative to the suggestion by others on this site to slip a piece of heavy cardboard between the fan and radiator before I started. That undoubtedly prevented some damage.




I found that cutting the head off a bolt to use as as guide stud when reinstalling the fan was a HUGE help.

While I had the coolant drained, I also added a new heater tube and a support strap tied into the air cleaner support. I also replaced my heater shutoff valve. I took the old one apart to look at it closer and found it was pretty well shot. The new valve has handle which will be much easier to use as well.









After doing this, I now won’t have any worries about replacing the water pump if/when it ever needs it down the road. I do have a benefit of a new front motor mount, so I can get to all the bolts without having to jack up the engine.

Just for grins, I decided to clean up the old shutoff valve.




As you can see, the bolt is totally shot and won’t seal up no matter what.

Don, I notice in one of your photos that you have what appears to be a corrugated flexible lower radiator hose.




Unless that hose contains a wire stiffening coil I'd be worried the hose could collapse from the suction effect of your waterpump, especially since you've now repaired it. All the pre-war Packards I've seen have a length of slightly curved steel tubing between two small sections of radiator hose to prevent that from happening. When I replaced the rusted mild steel original tube in my '41 120 I sourced a section of stainless steel tubing, courtesy of an offcut from the local muffler shop.

I know the radiator hose certainly isn’t correct. Would you be able to provide pictures of what I should have? It’s a process…little bit a time!

Don, Here's a photo of the stainless tube I installed in the '41. It took the place of a rusted out mild steel Packard part, but you could paint it and nobody would be any the wiser. Note, the curve in the stainless tube isn't quite the same as the Packard tube, it's close but I used what I could get!


EDIT - I'm pretty sure that either Max or Kanters or both can suppply a kit with all the parts required, hoses, clamps and tube.

Don - Where did you purchase your heater shut-off? I am looking to replace mine as well.

Quote:

I found mine on ebay at decent price. I think the one that was recommended on your blog from NAPA is probably a good option. I would have done that except mine was already on the way.

You don't want ANY restriction in your lower radiator hose. It's best to use the pipe arrangement with a smooth, full-diameter bend and to use pipe the same OD as the OD of the radiator and water pump connections. Using the pipe and short lengths of straight radiator hose eliminates any need of an internal spring, and it assures full, unrestricted coolant flow. Stainless, mandrel-bent pipe would be ideal. Or brass. The original pipes were mild steel. The bend, or curve, is a little more than 90 degrees.

Thanks, Ozstatman and TXGOAT. It’s added to my list.

Received the correct generator mount arm from Flackmaster today….de-rusted, primed, and painted it. Then, went to remove the incorrect one and ran in to a challenge.




This was a piece that someone fabricated by welding two bolts with different threads together and then welded the nut in place to serve as the spacer and the means of inserting the stud. Clearly, it was installed first!. Fortunately, It was no match for this.





Once I cut off a piece, it came right out and I was able to install the correct arm and spacer.

When I drained coolant so I could repack my water pump, and install the heater tube and shutoff valve, it was kind of a pain. The drain cock that I have doesn’t turn 90 degrees or have any accommodations for a hose.

I probably should have removed it and found a replacement while I had the coolant drained, but decided to hold off. I would like to do it when I replace the lower radiator hose.

Is the drain cock just have 1/4 NPT. It looks like the car was set up to have a drain hose that goes down through the hole in the photo. Is that right?