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How are the lock pins removed to take out the kingpins on a '37 120?

All the lock pins I've ever dealt with had a nut to secure them. These do not.

Are they to be driven out, and if so, in which direction?

The right hand kingpin is loose, and I can't tell if it is worn bushings or if the pin is loose in the knuckle.

The pin is tapered. Drive out from the smaller end.

A couple years ago I did this write up on my 115c's front end. Might be helpful.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=218338&keywords=tsherry

I just did my '40 110 using pretty much the same process.

Also, be careful when driving them out. It may be that they drive out in opposite directions for each side.

Did any 120s have needle bearings in the kingpins instead of bushings? I have some assorted used parts and what may be part of a new set of kingpins, or maybe they're outer lower control arm parts. There are two needle bearings among one set of parts. The pins or shafts are very similar to the kingpins, and the same diameter and length, though not identical.

The locking pins have a very slight taper, if any, and three grooves cut lengthwise on them. I don't see, looking at them, how they'd be very secure.

Other lock pins I've encountered have a distinct flat taper on one side and a threaded projection on one end with a nut to hold them tight once driven into place.

I only needed to replace one side on my 37 so I am able to take an image of the other complete kit. As you can see, the 120 at least used bushings along with a load bearing at the top. The one bushing needs to be aligned with the grease fitting, and both need to be reamed for fit after inserting. The pin is just a taper that locks into the notch on the king pin shaft mortise and tenon style. Drives in smooth and there are no stresses that cause it to shake out. The originals in my car were the same and after 85 years plenty tight to remove.
Bob J.

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  King Pin Kit.JPG (170.97 KB)

That's very similar to what I have. I have a pair of pins, 4 bushings, some thin spacer washers, 2 thrust bearings, and a couple of lock pins and the plugs. The pins have 3 grooves with raised edges cut into them, I suppose to make them stay put once driven in.

Would it be possible to hone the bushings to fit on a Sunnen machine?

I think the other pins and needle bearings I have may be for the outer lower control arm shaft/pivot.

Honing of bushings is in general not a recommended procedure as it tends of plug the open the pores of the bushing with hone debris and therefore inhibit good lubrication.

The thin washers are to establish the preload on the thrust bearing.

I don't believe the 120s ever used needle bearings for the kingpins, but some other years and models of Packard did use Torrington needle bearings.

Properly installed, the tapered locking pins will be extremely secure, I can't recall ever hearing in 60 years in the hobby of one ever coming loose.

Just a note: There are no pores on these style bushings. There is an elliptical groove cut into the bore to channel the grease completely around the shaft. It is much deeper than the tiny amount that the reamer needs to remove for a running sliding fit. The bushings are made from solid bronze.
Bob J.

These look like plain bronze.

I guess I need to find an adjustable reamer. I used to have one, but I haven't seen it in years.