Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

1940 might be different, but all of the later 356 engines had gaskets with upturned edges that spigoted into the block and the manifold. But your manifold should probably still be planed.

Running the engine on stale gasoline is what usually leads to stuck valves. A car sitting without running will not have issues with engine valves sticking due to stale gas, but serious fuel system problems are very likely, and running an engine on stale gas can cause problems very quickly. (and the problems may not be evident until the engine is stopped, cooled down, then re-started)

The amount carbon shown in the pictures is not unusual for an engine that is not run regularly on the open road. The exact nature of the carbon may not be normal, however. Burning stale gas can lay down deposits that are more like thick, dried paint than normal carbon deposits.

Packards and other pre-WWII engines in extended storage can have problems with rust on valve stems, especially if they are started and run for a short time, then shut down for extended periods. Engines that have thousands of miles on them are less likely to have this issue than a new engine or newly rebuilt one.

Possible, sometimes smell too rich when idling, but has jets that came with the carburetor. Correct or not? While the carburetor is off does anyone know what number should be on the correct size jet? Thanks

Some leaking yes, there may be no place in Las Vegas that does this anymore? The last couple automotive machine shops that were here have closed. The intake manifold might be original to car and the exhaust manifold that came with it developed a hairline crack, which I had brass welded, but then the two outside exhaust arms sagged a bit, and got a replacement exhaust manifold from the fellow that used to repair the sag, I think was in Seattle? If I can find can have the original arms of the manifold welded up to seat better on the block or have the two current ones machined. Again finding someone here in Vegas may not be able to find?

Quote:

In herehttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1939-1946_Tune-UpSpecificationAndAdjustmentChart.pdf

It may be crude, but I know someone who used a belt sander to level the manifolds when they couldn't access a machine shop in their general area.

They colored the surfaces with a thick Sharpie, which they used as a visual guide to know when they were getting roughly even. It proved effective for them. But the trick is to keep everything square.

Do it at your own risk!

Good idea Kev, I would add an accurate straight edge and a .001" feeler gauge to carefully check progress. (I turned my assembly face side down on a marble countertop I have for a workbench to verify its flatness with the feeler gauge.)
Bob J.

Many good ideas. While I have the head off and checking the valves, might use this for the first time? I got this maybe thirty years ago and never used. Should I use this time? If yes I have long since forgotten how to use and what the clearances are supposed to be? Perhaps there is a you tube video? I will check the valve seats and valves and if needed do a light hand lap? I have several grades of valve lapping compound that I can use? Thanks again.

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Dimensions would be nice for confirmation but by profile it appears to be the hydraulic lifter gauge for the 356 motor. Simply remove the hydraulic plunger unit from the cam follower and insert the gauge. Insure the cam follower is on the cam lobe baseline. Insert the valve and grind the end of the stem if necessary to give a clearance of between 0.030" and 0.070". Take care with the stem grinding, you can do it nicely without specialized equipment but you want it dead flat and square to the stem, a little polish wouldn't hurt. Obviously any seat work should be done first.

Early 1950s editions of Motors Manual have a fairly detailed section specific to these Wilcox-Rich hydraulic units.

If you have power valve and seat grinding equipment, it will give a fit and finish superior to what you can achieve with hand lapping. If not and the surfaces need attention, hand lapping can give a good service life.

Thank you, that would be a cold motor clearance. If the valve has a greater clearance would need to get a new valve, or lap in just a bit more if very close? If I need to grind a stem, the best way? I have a mill, surface grinder, and lathe but no way to really hold a valve stem making sure it is completely flat across the stem surface by hand? I don't have the power equipment, just a hand suction cup tool.